hey guys

Im wandering if someone would be kind enough to support me with a crank case picture or very clear manual view of the crank case of a 194 stovebolt 6 engine. Particularly a view around the number 3 rod from the front. This picture i need is a view as if your looking up into the engine.

Thanks ahead of time

Oilspot, what are you looking for? I have a few engines opened up, but need a little more detail of what your looking for.

Bruce

Just a good picture shot of looking into the crank case will do me. A top close birds eye view from the top of the crank viewing into the engine. Particularly a good shot around were the number 3 rod is from the front or radiator side of the engine to were the middle main is with the piston all the way down on the down stroke. This shot will be very useful to me.

Howdy Oilspot,

I am currently in the process of tearing down the 194 out of my 1931. Since it was on a stand, I ran out and snapped some photos of the area you mentioned. Most of the components are out of the engine right now, which is why you do not see the camshaft. I posted them to the VCCA Member's photos section (not sure if this is the best, but it was what I knew how to do). Let me know if these help or if you would like another shot, since right now it is pretty easy to do. However, I will probably be pulling the crank and pistons out soon to send the block out for machining (within the next few days) so if you would like another shot, please let me know quickly.

Cheers,

Rusty Berg

OilSpot doesn't have a VCCA membership number posted in his profile so he may not be a member of the VCCA. If he isn't a member of the VCCA then he will not be able to view the photos.

Ya.. Im not a member of VCCA yet. But im workin' on it!

While your waiting, here is one of the shots us members can see.



Roger

See what im tryin' to figure out is if i can change that 3rd rod without pulling the head.

I've had the oil pan off before but i dont want to pull it again ti'll i know i can change the rod. i just dont want to pull that head if i dont have too.

You have to pull the pan regardless to change the rod. The only difference is if you can get the piston down enough to get the pin out you don't have to remove the head.

Im certain i can move the piston down far enough...it's just that i dont know if i have room to squeeze in there with my hand and slip the wrist pin out.

Can anyone here inform me to if that is possible?

I really need to know becouse the rod knocks and i would really like to change it out. The babbit is beat oblong due to previous owner's "adjustings" but i dont want to pull the pan ti'll i know that i definitly can do this. IF NOT, i'll just wait till the engine gets rebuilt...sometime....in the feuture...maybee.

If you do get the rod out the new rod will have to be seized exactly to fit the journal on the crankshaft. And, if the journal on the crankshaft is way out of round then putting in another rod probably won't help much.

If you are going to install a different rod, another thing to consider is the weight of the rod. If the weight is not close to being the same as the other five rods (yes the rods were matched in weight from the factory) then it could throw your engine out of balance slightly. If you have a rod knocking I would pull the engine and do the job right by totally rebuilding the engine.

Now Skipper the rod does not need to be "seized". Maybe sized would be better! Yes the rods and pistons were originally grouped by weight (letter for group stamped on the pistons) and therefore the engines were sorta balanced.

Have replaced rods in a couple engines one or two at a time and not found any major problems with balance.

It is definately better to completely rebuild an engine and balance everything particularily if you are going to run it at higher speeds. Most people don't feel comfortable running the early sixes above 45 mph so balance is not nearly as important as those of us that run them faster.

I know that not everyone will agree with me on this but when I was getting my '31 ready to get it on the road and money was short I boiled out the motor, ground the valves, put in new rings, took shims out of the rods and mains untill snug, and put back together. That was 2 yrs ago. I have been driving it since but very seldon over 35 mph. Starts right up, no knocks and doesn't use any oil except for the small spot it leaves to mark it's territory. The plus is is that it's on the road and ready for when the grandskids and thier friends come over plus my own enjoyment.

Jerry,
I agree with you completely. That was the main feature of these old engines. They could be what we called overhauled easily providing the crank journals and cylinder walls were if fairly good shape and run for years. The rebuilding is fine for folks that plan on taking long trips and driving thousands of miles each year. For those who seldom put on even 500 miles a year a good overhaul job will last for years.....and sometimes they are better than the socalled rebuild jobs some shops do.

Thanks for all the input gentlemen.

I conclude that im going to wait ti'll an engine rebuild is possible. I can say it wont happen this year becouse the years almost gone and i dont want the engine setting on the floor all winter.

Sounds like a good idea to me.