Hello everyone, I'm back again with more ???'s
My 1948 Chev has a problem with steering wander and most of it comes from a worn steering box components.
Is there available a steering box rebuild kit that will get me out of trouble?
There is nothing I can find in Australia anywhere.
Any help would be appreciated.
Many thanks
Ron

Hi Ron, There are kits for rebuilding just the steering box from Chevy of the 40's and other parts suppliers. Most of these companies have On-line web sites. Please try to use the index for searching OUR web site to get feedback from other Chevy guys on how they have dealt with steering problems??? Lots of good advice should be available (check also the chat room for 37-42). You should also make sure you have read your manual a few times to check their advice out on your steering system. Lastly, there are lots of worn steering components that could be causing this drifting problem, and the steering box may not be the problem. While your box may leak and need adjustment it is a pretty tough component. I have a 41 sedan and on it you need to follow a pretty precise set of steps to adjust the play in the steering wheel, and I don't think I would use the word "drifting" and associate it specifically with a steering box problem. You could be looking at a problem with the pitman arm bushings, tie rod ends, king pins, and lots of other things. When the boys wake up this morning I'm sure there will be lots of good advice for you. Good Luck, Mike

P.S. Be real patience using our "Search" and "Advance search index" it doesn't always think the way humans do?

Thank you Mike, I will try and search your website for similar threads

Shock absorber not functioning correctly.
worn pitman arm bushings.
worn king pins.
worn tie rod ends.
Alignment off.

These are the usual culprits of "wandering"

There are 3 different adjustments that can be made to the steering gear. They are illustrated pretty well in the shop manual. If none of them correct the problem, suspect one of the above. The rebuild kits will supply you with new bushings, and bearings for the steering gear, but "WILL NOT" correct a worn worm shaft, or sector shaft.

Hi Ron, now that you have some ideas of potential problems you should start with a visual inspections of all the components of your steering system. I would jack the car up and put as tall as you can get jack stands under the front frame(or put the car on a hoist). You want to check everything over with the tires free to be turned as well as all the suspension parts able to be moved. Do you see any obvious sloppiness in any parts? How many inches do you have to turn the steering wheel before the tires actually move? Can you feel movement in the tires as you rock them in and out (one hand at top of a tire the other at the bottom, rock the tire back and forth)? What is the shape of the pitman arm bushings (Is the rubber distorted or worn away)? Do all the tie rod ends feel tight? Does anything look bent or disfigured from something hitting the bottom of the car? Is anything loose including the front wheel bearings? Some of these checks you may want to do with a friend at the steering wheel and you watching things underneath the car.

The adjustments for the steering box need to be made with the pitman arm off and the bolts to the box's cover loose. Be real clear on how your manual wants you to make any of these adjustments. Also is this a new problem, or one the car has had since you have owned it?

Once you ID potential problems let us all know what they might be so we can all get advice from members with experience with front end alignment and problems???

Good luck, Mike

Talking about inches of steering wheel movement before the tires actually move is not mentioned in the manual.
What is the usual movement someone should expect?

Jianis

Thank you Mike, I will try all of the suggestions you have made. I will let you know how I went.
Ron

Thank you Sarge, I will do a bit more exploring and let you all know how I go.
Ron

Jianis, It probably was not the best choice of words to use inches of play to evaluate the condition of the steering box. It could take four inches of play to turn the wheel at a stand still and one inch at 40 miles per hour. It is only accurate to disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box or tie rod ends to make this judgement. The manual says to disconnect the pitman arm from the steering box. I prefer to leave the pitman arm on and have a guy at the steering wheel and myself under the car to see the exact movements between the two (steering wheel and pitman arm). With absolutely no load on the pitman arm it may take fractions of an inch to move the arm. I actually bench adjusted my steering box off of the car, then made only very minor adjustments when it was installed. Off of the car I could hear and feel what the affects of my changes were. I could also better understand how pressure on the gears and bushings changed all the internal movements? I actually have and extra steering box with the shaft cut off about 7 inches from the box. It worked great to learn what I was doing. I highly recommend always keeping a backup part for this kind of thing.

When I went to rebuild my steering box the shaft seal was about an eight of an inch from falling off the box and was leaking badly. I probably had caused a situation where bad adjustments (changes without the pitman arm being off) was driving the shaft gear out of the bottom of the gear box through the seal???

NEVER make any type of steering box adjustment without the pitman arm off or atleast the tie rod ends attached to it off.

Good Luck, Mike

P.S. In May of 2011 my wife and I will be in LEER Germany. How close are you and other Chevy guys? We will also be in many other German cities as my wife leads a group of seniors on a tour through Germany.

Hello Mike

The idea of the question was to know what other owner consider as normal steering wheel play on a car in good condition car.
I am used from my 68 Volvo Amazon in its Heines manual it states that a play of one inch before the wheels start moving is acceptable when the car stands still.I have seen in more manuals that they mention similar values to evaluate the general condition of the frond suspension not only the steering box.
My steering box needs new bushings so I will rebuild the complete box soon.The trouble here is that I have to order all parts in the United states. My Fleetmaster is on the road only since last June and I am still busy fixing the bags.I wait for a few weeks see what other parts I need and then I will order everything in one time that saves on shipping costs that are often more as the parts themselves.I also try to collect backup parts when they show up and I can afford them, especially as I am also rebuilding another 48 Fleetmaster back home in Greece.That one is converted to a pickup but thats a long term project (16 years and still on the metal work) as I dont have the time to work on it.
There are not many 40s Chevrolets in the Netherlands I know 9 of them perhaps its a total of 30. the ones I know 3 of them are under restoration and the other 6 were for sale.I have never actually seen one driving other than mine.There are lots of 50s and newer cars and trucks. There is no vintage Chevrolet club,there are many classic American car clubs I believe I will join one of them with the new year.
I live in a small town called Voorschoten that is Near Denhaag. Leer in Germany is about 180 miles.
Perhaps we can meet and have a drive with the Fleetmaster I will be glad to meet you. Please let me know when you come.

Jianis