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#181074 - 08/18/10 01:36 PM Removing 28 engine
GreggD Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic

Registered: 07/27/08
Posts: 62
Loc: Washington State
I am tearing down a 28 National AB to restore it. I have come to the point of pulling engine, transmission etc. When pulling the engine, do I pull engine and trannie together or alone?
Thank you for any advice.
GreggD

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#181093 - 08/18/10 05:12 PM Re: Removing 28 engine [Re: GreggD]
Chipper Offline



Registered: 11/22/01
Posts: 9841
Loc: The Great State of TEXAS
It is far easier to take both out as a unit. Just be sure to remove the shift lever or top off the transmission. No need to take the u-joint apart. May need to put a support under the torque tube to hold it up when reassembling. I have changed out a '28 engine/transmission 5-6 times in the last year. That includes taking it out as an assembly and putting it back in as an assembly.
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#181125 - 08/18/10 08:57 PM Re: Removing 28 engine [Re: Chipper]
MrMack Offline



Registered: 12/14/01
Posts: 11815
Loc: Central Texas
So you just slide the spline off the torque tube, with the torque tube tied up to the brake cross shaft?
Radiator, hood and headlight bar removed? Water pump & fan? Or front fenders?
What else removed?
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#181130 - 08/18/10 10:12 PM Re: Removing 28 engine [Re: MrMack]
Chipper Offline



Registered: 11/22/01
Posts: 9841
Loc: The Great State of TEXAS
Yup, Just slide the U-joint bell housing off the torque tube. It will be necessary to remove the hood, support between cowl and radiator, fan blade, radiator, transmission shift lever or top of transmission, headlights and bar. Also must remove the floorboard and toe boards. Of course the front engine mount castle nut, side and transmission to brake cross shaft bracket bolts, bolts to transmission frame support, speedometer cable, wiring to brake light switch, brake rod to pedal, clutch and brake pedals, cable to starter, throttle foot pedal and shaft, linkage to carburetor, vacuum line to vacuum tank, fuel line from VT to carburetor, wiring to coil and generator and positive feed to horn. I have probably missed a couple of things. It is a good idea to remove the engine pans but not 100% necessary. I put a piece of corrugated paper board or carpet between engine head and firewall so it does not get scratched.

The engine/transmission should be raised straight up. Once the cover on the bottom of the flywheel is just above the frame cross member the assembly can be pulled forward a few inches. The top of the clutch housing will be just below the bottom of the firewall. Once pulled forward so that the clutch housing begins to slope away from the firewall then raise the assembly higher so the oil pan will clear the front cross member. It will be necessary to swing the back of the transmission toward the passenger side to get the transmission mount "wings" to miss the steering column. As you pull the assembly forward and up everything will clear and all you have to do is not let the engine/trans assembly to swing around and hit one of the fenders.

Just reverse the sequence to install. It will be necessary to raise the torque tube to meet the ball housing and likely rotate the transmission output shaft to align the splines. It will all go together without having to take the U-joint apart and then try to get it back together.
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#181156 - 08/19/10 07:47 AM Re: Removing 28 engine [Re: Chipper]
GreggD Offline
Shade Tree Mechanic

Registered: 07/27/08
Posts: 62
Loc: Washington State
Thank You...

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#181158 - 08/19/10 08:30 AM Re: Removing 28 engine [Re: Chipper]
1928isgreat Offline

Oil Can Mechanic

Registered: 04/21/10
Posts: 713
Loc: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Hey Chipper,

What is the trick of the trade when you re assemble the engine and trans back onto the torque tube. How do you get the uni joint which flops around inside the housing to meet up with the tail shaft. I tried once many years ago with no success, so since then have always broken apart the uni.

Regards

Ray
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Some say "Street is neat". I prefer "1928 is great"

I have documented my 38 years with a 1928 Chev Tourer, from 1973 to 2011. The highs, the lows, the good and the bad. Let me know what you think of it. Your comments are most welcome.Can be viewed at http://my28chev.blogspot.com/

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#181167 - 08/19/10 10:19 AM Re: Removing 28 engine [Re: 1928isgreat]
Chipper Offline



Registered: 11/22/01
Posts: 9841
Loc: The Great State of TEXAS
I have not had a major problem with aligning the u-joint. A few times I have had to rotate the output shaft a little for the u-joint and propeller shaft to line up. Guess if the u-joint is worn then it will flop around more.
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How Sweet the roar of a Chevy four!

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