Hello all,
I need some help. Just recently, I inherited my father-in-laws 1928 AB Coupe that has been in the family since the 50’s. He let the registration expire so I need to have a peace officer verify the VIN. I found the engine serial number and the metal tag on the engine cowl but I wanted to know if there is a VIN stamped on the frame.

As for the condition of the car, we restored the rolling chassis about 15 years ago. The car is complete with 22,000 miles and all the pieces seem to be there. This fall, I plan to purchase the wood kit from KC wood and start on the body restoration.
Thanks for your help,
Jeff

There is no serial number stamped into the frame. There is a serial (car) number plate nailed to the passenger seat riser on most '28 models. The Coach had it nailed to the main sill as there was no seat riser.

slowbowtie;
The serial number(VIN)is located on a small tag that is on the side of the passenger seat. It should be right in front of you when you open the passenger side door. There isn't any numbers on the frame. If that tag is gone; so is your VIN number. If you know the serial number you can buy a tag and make it yourself. My car just have the VIN stamped on a piece of metal and welded to the cowl under the hood. The inspector didn't know anything about a car that was built in the 20's so it was ok. Later on I had a member of the VCCA make a replacement tag for me.
Good luck.

Hello Jeff and welcome to Chevy Chatter II.

You'll find lots of good information on this site, so whenever you have questions, just ask.

Early cars did not have VIN's as we know them today. They did have serial numbers and for the 28 it was stamped on a small metal plate nailed to the passenger side floor. Seems most of the early Chevs have lost these due to wood rot and replacement. Here's some more discusssion on this topic.

Location of numbers per 28 owner's manual:
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/chevyowner/28cim06.htm

Futher discussion on VIN/Serial/Engine numbers:
http://vcca.org/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/171117/Re_vin_number_location#Post171117

If you haven't already gotten copies of the Owner's Manual and the Repair Manual, you should get some. The Filling Station carries copies.
http://www.fillingstation.com


Once again welcome. And consider joining the VCCA, you'll get some more access on this site plus a great monthly magazine - the Generator and Distributor, aka G&D.

Good luck and have fun with your project,

Dan

Let's get the important stuff taken care of first. WELCOME ABOARD! We are glad to have you in our clan. Now pull up a chair and let's talk about antique Chevrolet numbers. First and most important in most states do not call any numbers VIN numbers. All information from the old fellows come from various data plates and is called DATA.

Now, there may be stenciled information on the frame rail on the left side at about the driver's seat. For all practical purposes that information is 'good to know'.

Since your car is a coupe there is a data plate on one end of the drivers seat lift. This is a black tag about 3 1/2 X 1 3/4. It has the word NATIONAL on one line and the key information, a line of numbers and letters which tell us where your car was assembled, the series, and the sequence assembly number. That information is what a lot of states require for registration. On a pad on the engine "you will have to clean off the area to read it', is the engine number. Some states use that number for registration.

Now, on the head and the block is some interesting information. You can tell the date of casting the block or head.

Again, for some interesting information, life the driver's seat out of the car. Now look on the back side of the seat riser in front and you should find some more information. You will find the Fisher body number and the sequence number.

If you find any or all of these numbers come on back hear and we will decipher them for you.

Might I suggest you join the Vintage Chevrolet Club of America. This membership, reasonably priced, will allow you access to VCCA Technical Assistance for your specific car. It will also allow you to access more information on this site.

Again, WELCOM!

Thanks everyone!
Since I am a rookie/newbie to the vintage Chevy's I appreciate your detailed replies. I just wanted to make sure I was going down the correct path. I was a bit confused since the California pink slip has the VIN recorded as the engine number but the other data tags have different info.

The tag under the seat has the car number 6 AB 6927 and yet the cowl/firewall tag only has job# 8180 and body #124. Anyway, it sounds like I have all I need and just in case I will print out your replies if the peace officer has any doubts!

By the way, about two weeks ago, I sent my check off to join VCCA and I am looking forward to the new experience...

Thanks again for your help,
Jeff

"6 AB 6927" is the car serial number.

By the way, back then many states titled the car using the engine serial number instead of the car serial number.

Very pleased that you are going to join the VCCA. You will receive many benefits by joining.

6 AB 6927 This number can be broken down like this: 6 = Oakland, AB = 1928 Model, 6927 = sequential assembly number and was assembled in late Jan 1928.

See if you can locate the dates on the head and block and see if they check out with the assembly number above.

Ray,

Thanks for the model number breakdown and I have another question. I know the oil pressure on these engines is very low. However, after replacing the engine oil (filter is bypassed)I started the engine for the first time in roughly five years. The original oil pressure gauge registered zero so I shut it down and hooked up a reliable gauge. I still have zero oil pressure.

The engine was rebuilt about 18 years ago and if memory serves me it never had great oil pressure when we first started it up. So I let it idle for a few minutes and never did get any reading on the gauge. I even ran it with both oil outlets (for the oil filter)on the block open and no oil came out. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Jeff

Welcome fellow 28 owner. No oil pressure is definitely no good. it could just be the pump needs priming. This would involve removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump shaft with a drill. One suggestion here was to add an extra 1/2 quart of oil or so to the crankcase to help get it primed.

On mine, i get a solid 5 psi when running and warm.

Do not run the engine long without oil pressure. I would try to solve the problem by adding a full extra quart of oil. Once it is primed it should not give you any more problems.

And on the topic of VIN#s. Keep in mind, my car is Canadian. when I got the car, the VIN on the registration was not like the typical format noted here, nor was it the engine number. One day while cleaning the car, I found said number stamped into the dash to the left of the steering wheel. It's a 5 digit number followed by a letter. And there is no plate on the passenger side at all.

Ray,
I will try the extra quart of oil. As you can imagine, since the car had been sitting for so long all the seals are dried out and other gremlins have settled in; the water pump and radiator both have small leaks. Nothing that cannot be fixed, they just need a little attention. As I mentioned in my first post, I am starting with a restored (although some time ago) rolling chassis so I plan to fix or replace anything that has deteriorated or looks like it will give me trouble. Now is the time to ‘freshen up’ anything before the body goes on!

On a side note, as with any car there is always a story… I thought you might enjoy a short history on the car. It is an original California car that my Father-In-Law ‘stole” from a buddy before they went into the US navy. He got the car for a pack of cigarettes and a12 pack of beer! I have the dealers receipt from when his friend bought in 1951 for $62.25 from a Dodge-Plymouth dealer.

My Father-In-Law did a three-year tour in the navy and the car remained at home where he thought his dad kept it covered up. When he returned the top was torn and the interior was ruined from water and local critters. Long story short, the car moved from one house to another and after three children were raised, he decided to start working the AB in 1988. If I fast forward to last year, after a long battle with cancer my Father-In-Law passed away without ever seeing the car completed. He had owned many cars during his lifetime but could never part with the ’28.

Many years ago, the car was given to the youngest daughter (my wife’s sister) and deep down inside my Father-In-Law knew they would never fix the car but to keep the peace he left things alone. Well during his last few weeks, the youngest daughter made it perfectly clear that the car was hers. She is one of the money hungry types that thought the car was worth $$$$$$. Her husband did not want the car (he cannot change a flat tire) but was afraid to tell his wife. I reminded them the car was a ‘project’ and that it should remain in the family because that is what her dad wanted. Instead, she decided to haul it to the scrap yard! This did not sit well with my wife or me so we now have the car. There is still a family feud going on, but the car will remain in the family and it will be completed!

Jeff

Loved the story Jeff. knowing the history is almost as good as owning the car. I hope the car bring lots of years of fun and excitement to you and the family. Just make sure the ownership is in your name so the sinister in-law does not come a callin'.

This message has been spell checked and all the words are correct.

Hey Ray,
Good info. I just looked on the seat riser and got the Job No. 815 on my 28 National AB, there is also has a Body No. M5824, can you let me know what these mean?

Add a zero at the end of the job number and you get 8150 which is a five passenger sedan. The M5824 is an assembly sequence number for Fisher bodies.