Hello to all, I put a 6 v. fog light switch in over the weekend in my 37MD and I cant get the fog lights to work. Now before I did all of this,I cleaned all grounds I could think of. Tested the lights,{ seal beams}, which worked! Ive noticed on the back side of the switch their are three letters above the three contacts, B-F-T. B is for Batt. F is Fog and T is tail lights. Is there a way I can wire this to get JUST the fog lights to work, without having to wire in the tail lights through the switch? Your help is Appreciated.
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Joe's 37

The simple solution is to not connect the tail-lights to the switch. Then your two position fog light switch would activate the fog lights in one position and nothing in the second position.

Older fog light switches were designed to automatically turn on the tail lights when the fogs were on. I do not have the tail lights hooked up to the switch on my cars. If I use the fogs the head lights are already on....or for just the fogs I would put the parking lights on but can not recall ever doing that.

are the fogs grounded thru the mounts or a seperate wire? did you check the switch for continuity? does the switch have it's own fuse?

Thanks to all for the info. After I posted this problem, I went back out to the car and switched the wire coming from the fog lights to the tail light screw on the switch, now they work. But the deal is now, their blowing a 10 amp fuse after being on for approx. 30 secs. Maybe I should take Dad 31's advice and run a separate ground wire from each light. I had scraped and sanded the clamps and where they contact the bumper arms but it may not be enough. As far as the continuity go's, I don't have a meter as yet. As the switch go's, I cant feel a catch, with the knob, for the fog light position, but can for the tail light stop! So do I get bigger amp fuses and run separate ground wires? Thanks,
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Joe's 37

I think there is cause for the switch being defective. (When in fog position it may be a short to ground).

I'd try another switch just for a test, just an inexpensive toggle to see what happens

The 10A fuse is way too small. It calls for a 25 AMP.
There is something wrong with your switch, both terminals should be hot and you can use either one.

We'll, thanks ALOT for all the input on this. I think I'll see what NAPA has as far as a fog light switch tomorrow. Thanks,
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Joe's 37

Went to NAPA today, and got some 25 amp fuses to try the fog light switch again. First I tried running a separate ground wire from each fog light. Then put a 25 amp fuse in the switch and it blew again. So I then took the switch apart and found little cracks in the board the contacts are on. The guy at NAPA also said I need a new switch. So that is on order now. Hopefully that will that care of this. Thanks,
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Joe's 37

Got the new fog light switch today from NAPA. That must have been the problem cuz, the fogs lit right up and stayed on without popping the fuse. I know I should get a good meter,because there's been a lot of times I could have used one.
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Joe's 37

I bought a nice hand-held multimeter from Sears several years ago that has proved real reliable. I don't know if they still carry this model (#82141) any longer but surely they have a comparable. I don't think I paid more that $15.00 for it. It is quite rugged. I know you can get them for under $10.00 at places like Harbor Freight but don't know about the quality of those. Beamer

Thanks for the info on this Beamer. In my travels today, I'll swing by Sears first.
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Joe's 37