Hi all,
Hope someone has the right answer. After driving for a while (high speed highway) the engine in my 1931 sedan doesn't like to start back up. It turns over easily, but I have to keep going until it catches. If I flood it, that's even worse and I have to wait till that settles down. I put new points and plugs in and that doesn't seem to make a difference. What's left? The carburator. I hate the thought of taking that apart and hope I don't have to do that again. So, who has had that experience and what do you suggest?
Thanks,
Peter

send carb to chipper or the junk yard dog. they'll have it perfect. mike

i find it hard to flood the up draft carb but it can be done not near as bad as the down draft . you did not mention any thing about changing condenser or coil a while back i had a simular problem on my 31 thought it was a fuel problem turned out to be a coil . cold it would start easy and run good start driving after about 25 miles it would start slowing down like it was running out of fuel some times it would pick back up and run correct it was hard to find because every time i got out open the hood and checked every thing checked ok plugs fireing plenty of fuel in the carb i even demanded warranty and i got it chip brought over another carb . not the problem finally changed coil end of problem. hope this helps

Chip already rebuilt it. tTanks.

could be a few things,first fuel evaporation causing a vacuum lock in fuel pump,check pipe to see if hot also is fuel bowl vented?? pump diaphram weak,does it pump well when you disconnect fuel line when hot,condensor will show up bad after five minutes running,coil overheating just feel coil after running is it hot??? now this is a cracker, fuel cap not vented,causes a pressue lock in tank i ve had it and fixed a few cars with same problem causes over fueling,check your fuel lines are not collapsed or have blockage quickest way is immediately car refuses to start remove fuel line at carb and crank engine make sure you have a recepticle to catch fuel in,if when you disconnect fuel line it spurts out under pressure check above,do check all rubber fuel lines they can collapse inside and look good on the outer,dont forget old rubber is not liked by unleaded fuel change it all

first fuel evaporation causing a vacuum lock in fuel pump,check pipe to see if hot also is fuel bowl vented?? pump diaphram weak,does it pump well when you disconnect fuel line when hot,coil overheating just feel coil after running is it hot??? fuel cap not vented,causes a pressue lock in tank i ve had it and fixed a few cars with same problem causes over fueling,check your fuel lines are not collapsed or have blockage quickest way is immediately car refuses to start remove fuel line at carb and crank engine make sure you have a recepticle to catch fuel in,if when you disconnect fuel line it spurts out under pressure check above,do check all rubber fuel lines they can collapse inside and look good on the outer,dont forget old rubber is not liked by unleaded fuel change it all

Rubber fuel lines were not used in 1931.

mine has must have been replaced in its seventy five years!!!also fuel pump diaphram is old type rubber

JUNK YARD DOG

WHERE IS THE SERIAL NO ON 31 CHEV HELP

The engine serial number is on a machined pad next to the fuel pump. It and the other numbers are between the fuel pump and distributor.

The vehicle serial number or car number is located on a metal plate nailed to the main wood sill near the passengers right foot position. It is also near the metal plate above the battery.

More info and photos at HERE

---Bill Barker