Just getting my engine running and having issues with getting it fine tuned, it idles rough and small back fires through the intake and exhaust. Timing verified set on number one correctly but engine is running warm and boiling over a little.Have set the valves twice and have tried retarding and advancing the distributor, seems to like the advance more than retarded.Fresh rebuilt? carburetor.Could really use your advice, engine has not run in a few years and was professionally rebuilt in the eighties with less than a thousand miles on it.New cap,rotor,points,plugs,plug wires Thanks Denny

When running at idle (distributor lever in the advanced position) move the body of the distributor for best idle. Tighten distributor. When starting the engine be sure to retard the spark. When started move the lever to advanced position.

Thank You for the suggestions and just to confirm the lever on the steering wheel when fully down is in the retard mode? Having difficulty keeping it at idle so by the time I close the hood and open the other side to adj. the distributor it dies?

You may have more than one problem. The carburetor may also need adjustment.

Your problem sounds like the startup of my 28 --of unknown history--
the flywheel can be installed in wrong position so timing marks are wacky. I checked against #1 TDC on compression and found the flywheel timing msrk off one bolt hole, paint marked the correct timing mark and set timing to it. The old chevy now runs like champ and purrs like a kitten.

I have not really checked the timing marks, could you possibly give me a quick review as how to do this? Thanks Denny

Ray, once again a BIG THANK YOU for all of your help and now it is running pretty good.One more question please, I have a new electric pump and a new pressure regulator, at two pounds the bowl runs out of fuel and at two and a half it comes out of the overflow port.Is there a normal acceptable pressure? Gary suggested one pound but it will not deliver fuel at that rate.The pump is mounted below the fuel tank suction line
Thanks Denny

To check the timing marks set the #1 piston to TDC "top dead center" on the compression stroke. The TDC flywheel mark should lineup with the timing pointer at the flywheel window. There are two marks on the flywheel
the first is 25 degrees before TDC the second is TDC -- may be a zero mark. It is important to have the #1 piston right at the top of the stroke.As I noted mine did not line up so I marked that point ,with paint, as TDC and timed the ignition to that mark I hope this helps, good luck!

Thanks so very much, Denny

Hi Denny,

I frown on the use of either the electric pump or the pressure regulator and some of the reason is just what you are asking about. If you insist in an electric pump use it as a backup and to prime the engine after it has been sitting awhile. The original equipment pump was a Stewart Warner Vacuum Tank. A good tank will make a good car run without problems. I drove my 1925 Roadster with the stock vacuum tank and one passenger to the top of Pikes Peak. So why would anyone need an electric pump?

Ray, Thank You and just restored my vacuum tank and waiting for a new float from Gary Wallace

Very good decision. If you have any problems with the vacuum system, come on back and we will be glad to help.

Gary Wallace contact info now?

Gary Wallace chev4cylcharter

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