I recently bought a '31 engine. It is supposed to have been rebuilt but never started. The owner of the car rebuilt the engine while restoring the car, but died before he finished the car. The new owner doesn't want the original engine.
The engine supposedly has new internals, but I can't know for sure. I intend to take the pan off soon and check the bottom end. The rocker arm assembly looks ok.
What should I do to get this engine ready for a test start. I have turned the motor over with the hand crank, so I know it is not seized. What preparations should be made?

Also, I believe my old carburetor is a Tillotson carb. Are there still rebuild kits for these? What all should I get to rebuild it? It currently leaks gas out of the end.

Thanks,
Brandon

Haven't seen any rebuild kits available for those carbs.

You would be better off getting the correct Carter 150-S carburetor for your engine since repair kits and new parts are readily available for that carburetor.

Would it be more economically viable to buy an old Carter cheaper and rebuild it or buy a newer one which has already been done or is new?

You will likely be better to buy a good used original Carter and rebuild it yourself or have it rebuilt by one of the VCCA member rebuilders. Be very careful when you buy the carburetor. If the standpipe and accelerator pump are missing or broken it can cost $ 400+ for the rebuild. If the cast iron casting is broken or corroded it is not practical to rebuild and the carb is only good for parts.

Rebuilt carburetors are available but the cost is likely more than a quality rebuild of yours.

Hey Chipper-Where can I obtain a standpipe(accelerator pump assmy) and a float for a 150S?

hoppy

Thanks. I am not familiar with the parts you mentioned. I'm not very good with carburetors. I don't imagine there's much too it, but I've yet to really ever take one apart (except a small briggs engine on a pressure washer). When I finally go to get a carburetor I'll probably consult again on the forum to make sure it is a complete piece.

Back to the engine, are there any other procedures which would be standard before attempting to turn the the old iron over for the first time?

Thank you,
Brandon

From the Filling Station.

Brandon, if the engine really has been rebuilt as claimed, it represents a lot of money invested that could be ruined in ten seconds if you're not careful. I recommend that you proceed as follows (assuming that the engine is in the car):

-- Remove oil pan. Check inside of crankcase for cleanliness, rust, debris, moisture, etc.
--Using a small mirror and flashlight, check that oil galleries above main bearings are clean and free of debris. Examine cylinder walls to confirm there is no rust and that they are free of scoring and wear.
-- Remove one rod bearing cap, being careful to note the position of the shims so they can go back in the same places. Inspect rod journal and bearing. If they're new/resurfaced, it will be obvious. Reassemble and torque to correct torque, reinstall cotter pins.
-- Same drill with one main bearing, looking for condition and cleanliness.
-- While oil pan is off,lubricate cylinder walls, rod and main bearings, piston pins, camshaft bearings, cam lobes and lifters with clean motor oil, reinstall oil pan with new gasket.
-- Remove side cover, inspect push rods and lifters and check for rust/cleanliness. Lubricate lifters, reinstall side cover with new gaskets as needed.
-- Remove valve cover. Check for cleanliness, rust, etc. Lubricate rocker arms, valve stems and push rods with Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). Leave cover off for now.
-- Remove spark plugs and squirt one teaspoonful of MMO into each cylinder. This will act as a penetrating oil and both free up any sticky rings and lubricate the pistons for startup.
-- Check that plugs are clean, reinstall.
-- With engine either in car or in test stand, lubricate starter, generator and water pump, check fan belt tension, etc.
-- Fill engine to full mark on dipstick with good quality oil, ensure radiator is topped off.
-- Remove distributor and using a slotted piece of 1/2" round stock to engage the oil pump, turn oil pump with an electric drill until oil pressure is raised to normal. Continue running oil pump with drill until oil is observed seeping from all rocker arms. Run the oil pump for at least five minutes to fill all the galleries and oil reservoirs with oil. Reinstall distributor and reset timing.
-- Crank the engine over slowly by hand and check that all rocker arms and valves are operating. Statically check the valve clearances. Reinstall valve cover.
-- Prime the fuel system to fill the carburetor bowl with fuel.
-- You're now ready for a short test run. (Don't be alarmed if there is heavy smoke for the first ten seconds on startup -- that's the MMO burning off). If the engine really is freshly rebuilt, you don't want to rev it up too far above idle or to run it for more than a minute or so the first time. The new bearings can generate a lot of heat until they wear in a bit. The idea is to run it for a minute or so, shut down, check for leaks/problems, wait an hour or so, start again and run a bit longer, shut down/cool down, etc. After 2-3 short runs like that, you can extend them and then begin driving the car gently. The main point is to avoid overheating the engine when it's brand new.

Sorry to rattle on for so long, but I hope that's the info you're looking for. One final recommendation: On the day you plan to start it up, find someone in your area who has done this before and ask them to stop by and give you a hand -- you can learn a lot from the voice of experience. Good luck with it!

All the Best,

Chip

Stanley's Parts in Fort Worth, TEXAS. Lonny Eckstrand is owner/operator and a great asset to the VCCA and Chevy restorers. Address is: 210 Center Lane, Fort Worth, TX 76140-9500 (817) 478-7265 www.stanleysparts.net He makes or has made a ton of parts for our old Chevys.

Thanks Chip for all the information. It's definitely not rambling on to someone like me that can certainly benefit from it. In your information, since the pan is off, I assume you're meaning inspect the cylinder walls from underneath. In this situation, how would I lubricate the cylinder walls? Would simply running oil on the walls be sufficient?

Thanks again for all the advice, it's exactly what I was needing.

Brandon

You're more than welcome. If I lived closer by, I'd offer to come over and help out, but it's a little far, especially with I-40 still closed until May due to the rockslide.

To oil the cylinder walls, just take a clean, lint-free rag, soak it in motor oil until saturated, then reach up past the crankshaft and wipe the cylinder walls with it. Whole idea is to ensure that the engine has the best possible lubrication for the first 100 revolutions or so until the regular lubrication system can take over.

Good luck with it.

All the Best, Chip

Thanks Chip. Yeah, that rock slide is what caused us to go through Atlanta when I went to get my new (to me) 31 engine, which in turn is what caused us to get snowed in in Atlanta. haha.

When I get around to installing the engine I'll definitely write an update.

Brandon