How do you pull interior handles. I hear it is a clip but how do I remove it or even access it?

Any good way to remove rounded off rear fender bolts? My bloody knuckles attest to my failed attempts.

Detailed instructions should be given in your shop manual. It is a clip, if it is like the 49-54. i am not sure. If you don't have a shop manual for the car, you should buy one. Also I would encourage you to join our National club VCCA (Vintage Chevrolet Club of America) find an application at: VCCA Home
Until you can find manuals for your car maybe this URL will help: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/1946_47/46fisher059.htm

Go to the Filling Station online catalog: Search "Handle Clip Removing Tool"
This tool slips between the escutcheon and the handle and the clip pops right off.
As far as the bolts, drill them out or grind off depending on location.

I always try to extract the bolt intact since it has to happen eventually. If you have and are proficent with a MIG, try this:
Clean the head of the bolt to bare metal. Using a larger unplated nut (example 1/2" for a 5/16" bolt) with good ground on the body (or nut) hold the nut on the head of the bolt and weld (hot) the nut to the bolt head. You are trying to actually lay a fillet around the interior of the nut/bolt head interface. Do not stop welding until the nut is full of metal. This is difficult to do but can be repeated until you give up or the bolt breaks.
This procedure has the advantage of heating the threaded portion of the bolt (helps). Let the item cool to shrink the bolt and lubricate if possible prior to attempting to unscrew.
CAUTION : FIRE HAZARD ON THE BOLT ON THE INSIDE OF THE CAR!
Have water or extinguisher, squirt bottle and an observer present for saftey. If you cannot see the bolt on the inside of the car, DO NOT USE THIS PROCEDURE! Just drill it out or grind it off as previously suggested.
Jerry

Go to my post about replacing the weather strips on my 41. What I did was to file down and bend the end of a small spring so that it engages the end of the clip/keeper in the groove in the dandle where it slides slides on the door/window mechanisms. Works like a charm. They have a small spring packet at Lowes.

As to the fender bolts. Can you get to the nut on the back? Or is it screwed into some other hole that has no nut? Point is you may want to try working from the back side. You may want to douse it with some of that Blaster bolt and nut stuff or some penetrating oil. Penetrating oil will work if you can get it to the threads.

I have an even bigger problem. I can't get one of the four bolts out of my hood latch. It has a flush screwdriver slot. And, is tighter than a tick.

Good Luck, Charlie

The welding a nut on an old bolt usually works great, it not only gives you a new hex nut to put your wrench on, it also breaks the rusted bolt free from the threads. Charlie you do have a bigger problem with a flush mounted, slotted screw. You probably can't use an impact type screw driver because the hood is too flexible, if you are not worried about the paint, I would try the heat method. I have used a brazing tip so the heat is concentrated on just the screw or bolt but it will still usually burn the paint off the surrounding area.

Thanks Uncle Ed. I'll try the heat method. The car will be painted. Black, maroon or gray (Like the one in the AACA museum).

Thanks for the tip.
Charlie