I can't seem to get the radiator adjusted the the right height relative to the engine front. I have shimmed the mounting bracket at the frame and the mounting tabs on either side of the radiator shell with three 1/4" thick rubber shims and still the hand crank will not engage the nut on the crankshaft easily. It seems the radiator is still too low. Shouldn't the hood be level(cowl to radiator shell)? I replaced the front motor mount as well as the two rear ones. Seems like 3/4" is a lot to raise the radiator.

Perhaps someone will share some words of wisdom??

Good Morning, Doc...

Something seems wrong with your description. My hood drops at least 1-1/4 inches from cowl to radiator shell. I have only 1 thin pad on each side mount, and the crank fits easily--and is fairly level when installed. These are photos from a couple of years ago when I had the radiator and shell out for repairs. You can clearly see the crank bracket in the center and the mountings on either side. Hope this helps.

Is there a shim beneath the mounting bracket to the frame? How thick is the front motor mount rubber encased in the metal shell? how long is the radiator hose from upper outlet to top of block? also my engine is not level front to back - more than 1/2 bubble off at rediator end.

Thanks for the photos - they are always helpful. I really appreciate your input. Looking forward to hearing from you.
Bruce

Are you sure you have the correct radiator?... Just a thought.

Mike

I think so, Mike. It was on the vehicle when I got it and everything seemed to fit. My problem really started when a well minded friend started to take the truck apart one Staurday morning BEFORE I could take photos.

Don't ya just love it when your "helper" starts taking things apart and the pieces just fly all over the place? Then, when you go to put it back together you have no clue how it was! (and helper is gone) Sounds like your engine is too high. Seems like the hood should be level or a little lower in front. If it is wrong the hood won't fit right.

Bruce,

There is a very thin (1/8") pad on each side between the mounting tab on the radiator shell and the frame mounting flat.

The front motor mount is 3/4" to 7/8" thick.

The distance from the top of the radiator strut mount to the front top of the cylinder head is 15-1/2", measured point-to-point.

The level on the top of the cylinder head is easily a full bubble off--high toward the front.

Let me know if additional photos would help.

Wally

Wally.........

Is there a shim beneath the "U" shaped bracket which mounts directly to the frame's front cross member? I have 2 1/4" pieces of rubber here. My radiator still rests lower than the cowl - today I'll measure just how much and compare to your numbers. I might be OK here. Maybe this is just an exercise in shimming the radiator high enough to clear the hand crank beneath the lower tank. My crank is very close the bottom of the lower tank and when engaged to the engine is still not level. All this makes me nervous cause the sheet metal placement depends on proper fitting of the radiator shell.

Could you measure the lenghth of the radiator hose? Maybe that will give me a goal to work toward!

Thanks again for your help--- I don't have anyone near to me where I can go study the unit!

Bruce,

There are 2 side supports, which are more "L" shaped than "U", and on which the 2 radiator shell mounting brackets rest and attach with a single bolt & nut. These are the only 2 mounts to the frame, and you can see them in my photo I've added below. There is no U-shaped bracket below the radiator's bottom tank, and certainly no thick rubber pad or mount anywhere in the deal.

My upper hose is 10-1/4 inches long, and is a tight fit.

There also is a curved stone shield with a large hole in it for the crank to pass thru, which as I recall mounts to the fenders and possibly to the shell, below the frame mount I mentioned above.


Wally

Wally,

you have circled the top of the two arms of the "u" bracket I speak of. (Don't know what it is really called.) Follow the arms down to the center of that piece where the crank guide is mounted and you should see two bolts holding it in place(and the guide). There were shims between that bracket and the frame's crossmember, and it is there that I placed 1/2" of rubber in an effort to raise the radiator. Between the shims there and one on each arm, the radiator has been raised 3/4" in an effort to even get the hand crank to the engine. I'm concerned that if I continue to raise the radiator, the sheetmetal won't fit properly.

Bruce,

Ahh, I see what you mean. My truck has only a 1/8" (rubber?) ship between the U bracket and the front xmember. Is there any chance you've raised the front of the engine by placing the front motor mount on top of the xmember instead of under it where it belongs? This seems unlikely--but It's sounding like the engine is mounted too high, making the radiator too low, relatively speaking. Does the crank guide line up with the center of the crankshaft?

Wally

WAIT!!!!!!!! You are right - it seems the engine is too high...but you lost me.........you say the front motor mount and shield goes UNDER the frame Xmember?? Wouldn't that mean the engine would rest directly on the xmember itself??

When I restored my 36 It had a later model engine that had NO front mount. I assumed this was done to make It fit. I found the correct engine (206.7) and installed It along with a new front mount from The Filling Station. It too seemed to be 1" too high to line up with the crank guide. I fooled with It for a week before I decided that I would never use the crank. I did shim the sides of the radiator mount, but not by an Inch, to make the hood et al sit properly. If the engine sat directly on the cross member It would align, but with the mount on the underside it would be riding on steel. The mount does have two round protrusions that would stick up and touch the engine, but not enough rubber to protect the engine, I don't think. Wally, do you have any photos you could show us? I'm starting to feel real stupid.
Richard

Bruce and PU Guy,

I originally thought that the engine had never been out of my truck. I learned later that it was painted the wrong color (light grey), so either it has been out, or someone repainted it in place. After 74 years, who knows?? Anyway, here's a photo I just took of the front motor mount--attached below the xmember--where it seems to belong. With it in this position, the crank lines up with the crank guide and the radiator is in the correct position relative to the engine. Please excuse the scruffy appearance of the underside--it seriously needs a pressure washing--and I'm sure a new rubber in the motor mount. I suspect the new motor mount rubber will be slightly thicker than the sides of the steel cap, providing some cushion when compressed with the bolts. I just assumed that the steel cap was to protect the rubber from road junk. What do you think??



Wally

Seems like I've opened a can of worms. Nothing like an intellectual conversation......too bad we're not all in the same garage! I put a call into Dave, the tech wizard from Jim Carter Truck Parts. Perhaps he can shed some light on this dilemma.

Wally...

If your configuration is correct, then THAT is my problem. I mounted the parts on the top of the xmember because if you read the explanation in Jim Carter's parts book - it says the motor mount shield "protects the rubber mount from oil". Your setup would seem to catch oil and bathe the rubber in it. Seems to me that the rubber on the bottom would serve no purpose. It's a mystery to me!!

Bruce

I have a bad feeling that I am going to be reinstalling a front motor mount. A motor mount under the crossmember is a new one on me. Thank you Wally for taking the time to take and post the photos,I think!LOL
Richard

Just left a message for Steve at The Filling Station. Will post his response.
Richard

Well, I just got off the phone with Steve and he confirmed that it does go under the crossmember. Live and learn.
Richard

Richard,

I notice that your emoticon went from to to in just 3 posts. Bad for the blood pressure. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Wally

Yep, the front motor mount definitely goes UNDER the front cross member and it is mounted in that position back to 1932.

Wally.......

Can you explain to me how to add a photo to these posts. I have a maintenance bulletin I'd like to share.

never mind ,Wally..........I don't have the means to add the bulletin so all can read it, but I can share the contents: the front motor mount rests on the top of the xmember and is held inplace by two crossmember bolts which are covered by a metal shield to protect the rubber from oil damage and deteriation. The engine mounting bolts rest in the two more centrally located holes and are encased by bushings.

I don't know what to make of the advice from the Filling Station fellow and I certainly don't know what direction to travel now. Feels like I'm back to square one!!

Footbiz:
Was this in one of the 1936 Chevrolet Service bulletins? If so, which month?
Thanks,
Richard

Taken from GMC maintainence Manual, Section 8, page 175. The GMC engine configuration is the same as the chevy. I'm sorry that I can't post it within this thread but would be happy to fax you a copy. Send me a number privately if you don't want to post it here. It simply makes no sense to mount the rubber on the road side of the xmember and catch any oil within the shield which is designed to protect the rubber from damage and deterioration. I'm going to call Filling Station tomorrow and speak with Steve - - just don't understand the logic.

Forget the GMC manual, what does your 1936 Chevrolet Repair Manual say? As you mentioned previously you tried the motor mount on top of the cross member and the engine sat too high.

According to the 1936 Chevrolet parts book the front motor mount is the same for 1932 passenger cars and 1933-36 trucks. The motor mount for 1932 mounts UNDER the front cross member....it does not sit on top. Don't let the shield confuse you. Try the motor mount under the cross member and see how your engine sits.



Information on the Internet regarding the 1936 GMC engine indicates the following:

1934-1937 - Oldsmobile 6-cylinder L-head engines were used in GMC light and some medium duty trucks.

1936 - Major changes appeared in all GMC conventional cab models. 15 new models were released, including 1/2-ton pickup and panel trucks with Olds engines. All other models had GMC engines that were in nine sizes from 239 to 707 cid.

Unfortunately, the Chevrolet Repair Manual nor the 1936 Service News make mention of motor mounts. If It did we could end this debate, pronto.
Richard

Bruce,

I sent you a PM regarding the GMC page.

Wally

Well Gentlemen................

Junk Yard Dog and Steve from The Filling Station must be correct with WinoWally's picture to confirm the exercise! The rubber motor mount seems to be more comfortable UNDER the front cross member. My hand crank engages the crank shaft knuckle level and straight with a minimum of shimming for the radiator assembly. Guess the real test will be on the road and how well the hood fits into the fenders and radiator shell.

Thanks to all who graciously contributed the the solving of my headache!!!

Yep, as you discovered the motor mount does go under the front cross member as it was designed and not on top. With the motor mount on top the engine configeration is not correct.

Thanks Mr Dog.

Looks like thats another area needing re-doing on my 31. If you remember, my 31 has 32 block and mounts in it and the front mount is presently on top of cross member.

Jim.

Congratulations, Bruce. Glad it worked for your truck.

Wally

If your motor mount is on top of the crossmember on your '31 (the 1931 engine didn't have motor mounts as you know but the 1932 engine did) then you will definitely have to move it down underneath the cross member.

Bruce:

I sent you a PM.

Richard