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Registered: 10/27/10
Posts: 20
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#161590 - 01/10/10 02:26 PM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Jim Magill]
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Registered: 01/08/08
Posts: 48
Loc: Regina SK Canada
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For your son's Willys I would check with the WOKR (Willys Overland Knight Registry) It has been a long time since I belonged to that club but they did have all of the factory blueprints and would copy for a fee.
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#161652 - 01/11/10 06:06 AM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Jim Magill]
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Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 1884
Loc: Oslo, Norway
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A Swedish company offered recently a ready made set of ash to a 490 1921/22, Touring, for USD 3900, fob factory. Here is the web site: http://www.mastergarage.nu/edlunds_eng.htmThey have around 200 sample sets, etc. and/or drawings to Chevrolets and other brands and have been in business for many years. Here is a Norwegian company supplying wooden sets and sheet metal too: http://www.mamut.net/sav/ Click on "Nettbutikk" and Chevrolet. To find the runningboards, write stigbrett in the search field. If you have the vital parts/ends of the old wood it must be possible to get someone to make the parts in US, and at lower cost. I pressume you can get almost every wooden part to T- & A-models from several stocks at quite reasonable prices, and have seen that the needed drawings to make the wood yourself may be bought as well. As to our brand, the situation is far worse, and has been such for many years here in Nordic countries (and USA???). A huge lot of the drawings are missing and it looks like the demand for wooden parts is so much lower that most people struggle hard to get the needed parts and at a comparatively same low price as to the F**Ds. Recently I was able to buy a lot of pin-striping drawings to Chevrolet models from the 30ties. They will be made available some later on the MO pages here. If somebody have drawings of the wood to Chevrolet models, please arrange for a scan of each to be sent to our webmaster during this year. As to the cost of replacement of all the wood, done by a restorer company, would be around USD 10.000, and the wood to a 31 here in Norway would be USD 6000-6500 if you install it yourself. And as you say, the difficulties and delays during the prosess are numerous even when they can be foreseen, so the total will be higher than thought, at the end. Let's keep this thread warm until we find the makers and the needed drawings! 
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Solan G, # 32797
Take advantage in your hobby by being member of VCCA!
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#161769 - 01/12/10 01:55 AM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Jim Magill]
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Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 1884
Loc: Oslo, Norway
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Very rapid and nice work. I also would have liked to buy a set of drawings about the wood to the body of my 1916, so I might ask as well. You are very fortunate to live near such a good source of old, solid craftsmanskill. Except for the "missing" front door, would the wood parts to a Touring 490 be the same to all years from 1915/6 to 1922? If so we could ask for more copies of the same printing. 
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Solan G, # 32797
Take advantage in your hobby by being member of VCCA!
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#161854 - 01/13/10 01:43 AM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: jack39rdstr]
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Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 1884
Loc: Oslo, Norway
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Thanks for clarifying, but even if the factory (Chevrolet) did not show such wooden parts, the body builders must have had drawings to their work on a car. I have seen some very few examples of such drawings to Chevrolets, and a lot more to F**Ds. We have asked some of the many old body builders here in Norway if they still have such material, but so far in vain. Has anyone here kept the old parts or any kind of drawing from a restoration of the body wood to a 490? 
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Solan G, # 32797
Take advantage in your hobby by being member of VCCA!
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#162042 - 01/15/10 04:01 AM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Solan]
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Registered: 09/03/07
Posts: 169
Loc: Etters, Pennsylvania
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Send an email to Edlund in Sweden and ask if you could buy a copy of the drawings from him. I got an email back from Edlund: "Hi. sorry i don't have any patterns for the wood i did from the original i have,and some i did by my self.I may Have some old wood so i can do new wood and send this to you.?" Looks like he didn't make any drawings so I guess it's up to us.
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#162108 - 01/15/10 09:15 PM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Jim Magill]
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Backyard Mechanic
Registered: 11/30/08
Posts: 234
Loc: Edmonton, Alberta
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I'm currently in the process of redoing the wood on a 1929 Oldsmobile for a friend. This is a Fisher body. I've also redone the wood on my 1926 Chev Touring a year or so ago. In my view, making templates or drawings good enough for someone else to do the woodwork without having the old wood and the sheet metal, would be a very difficult task. The problem is that most parts involve multiple angles and contours. I think most people who take on a job like this would simply try to reconstruct the old pieces using clues such as screw holes and the sheet metal and use these as templates for making the new pieces. Also the body is symetrical so if you have a good part from one side you can make a mirror image copy for the other side. Figuring out what each old piece is and how things fit together is much like putting a jig saw puzzle together and rather time consuming. So far I've clocked about 170 hours on this job, not counting a lot of "thinking" time. I've also cut up about 100 board feet of ash, a beautiful wood to work with. I should be done in a few more days, I hope.
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#162124 - 01/16/10 06:15 AM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Arend]
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Registered: 11/01/06
Posts: 1884
Loc: Oslo, Norway
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In my opinion your comments here are quite correct. I have heard quite a few using same methods to reuse the old wood as samples for the new make, as there are not many Chevrolet drawings around, as far as I know. Nevertheless the professional wood makers cut and finish each of the new parts in series and then collect them in sets for each car body. If or when you have all old parts or at least a piece of each part needed,right or mirror shown, it should be possible to make a number of sets to the same body type Each should mainly fit, and certainly after some sanding. The Swedish company does not have more than a few drawings, may be none, and make the sets from old wood. I know from before that Straedet uses same method to make his sets, and they fit. We have tried to hunt down drawings during the last ten years here in Norway, but so far without any luck. I also asked the "Fisher" museum "over there" if they could have some papers stored in the shelves, but no. Anybody around "sitting on" some drawings, from "any" years? 
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Solan G, # 32797
Take advantage in your hobby by being member of VCCA!
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#162127 - 01/16/10 06:26 AM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Solan]
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Backyard Mechanic
Registered: 07/07/06
Posts: 284
Loc: Iowa
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What is the correct type of wood to use for these cars. In particular, a 1920 Model T Chevrolet truck? Ash, Oak, Poplar?
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#162175 - 01/16/10 01:15 PM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Solan]
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Registered: 09/03/07
Posts: 169
Loc: Etters, Pennsylvania
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I have always been told Ash but I believe a mixture of different woods may be more correct. What we need to do is use the machines in this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggvzcGdZsTcInstead of making the parts in plastic, send the information to a wood cnc router. Not to mention the data could be kept online and shared.
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#162212 - 01/16/10 08:52 PM
Re: Replacement wood
[Re: Chipper]
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Backyard Mechanic
Registered: 11/30/08
Posts: 234
Loc: Edmonton, Alberta
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I know that a variety of woods were used in Chevs. They were of course at the low or economy end of the car spectrum and were not above using shipping crates. The profit margin on manufacturing a Chev wasn't that great and any wasted wood would cut into this. F*rd did the same thing. In fact the story is that Old Henry would specify to his suppliers what quality and dimensions the crates had to be so he could reuse them. I think the higher priced cars tended to ash. It's strong and light weight - both desireable qualities in a car body. Ash will flex where oak will shatter. Also I don't see the point of trying to duplicate the variety of wood. Sure I could go to the trouble of identifying the wood used in each piece. It's much simpler to buy a bunch of ash and get the job done. I'm using red cedar for the roof slats because that is what the original was and its rot resistance.
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