Ever since I bought my 1922 Touring three and a half years ago the steering has been quite stiff. Also I have had a little too big play, more than one inch on the steering wheel before the pitman arm moves. Despite these problems, the car runs very steady on the road, it is a real pleasure to drive.

A couple of weeks ago I removed the radiator, to fix a couple of small leaks. Then I decided to remove and check the steering gear. My car has the older type of stearing (gear and sector, not worm and gear).

Removing the gear case cover was quite tricky, as it is necessary to remove the steering shaft from the steering column tube (or “jacket tube”). I had the same type of difficulties that CORetiree describes so well in his thread “Steering Shaft Lube?”, last post 02/28/09. The bushings in my car has expanded, causing the stiffness. Small pieces of the bushing material has came loose. So I’m going to replace the bushings.

The axel ends on the steering gear countershaft are worn, as are the holes in the case and the case cover. The free play is approximately 0,10 mm (.004”). The axel ends are slightly conical. The teeth on the gears are not noticeable worn, not even the teeth that matches as the car is headed straight forward. I think the best is to grind the axel ends a little, bore the holes a little and have bushings made, making a free play say 0,03 mm (.001”). Some better idea? How much grinding and boring? Which material in the bushings? If I choose oil bronze bushings, is it the best to lubricate with grease? “jack39rdstr” – in your post 02/16/09 you write that you just had your steering box rebushed. What are your experiences? Any suggestions?

And CORetiree - I hope your steering works fine?

I don't like grease in steering boxes as the grease does not flow well enough to lubricate the shaft and bushings. Heavy oil or 600W or SAE 160W will lubricate the best. It may be possible to find a lip type seal that can be used if leakage is a problem.

HI Larsson.

I took my steering box for my 1920 to a machine shop , I dssassembled and cleaned it prior to them looking at it.

He measured all the shafts and then gave me a quote.

He bushed about 4 of the shafts in both halves of the steering box., He also had to ,skim down the shaft out for the pitman shaft, and i will have to get the pitman arm bushed now to fit on the steering shaft output.

My gears all looked in excellent condition as well.

After reassembling with a new gasket it should contain most of the lubricant in the box. There is no seals except for sealing plugs in the housing to cover the shafts.

After rebushing it left a small amount of backlash , similar to the backlash in an ordinary auto differential(rear end).

I do not think you can fabricate any off centre bushings to try and remove the backlash. From my experience there is no way to adjust the backlash, but to keep the bushings and shafts tight.The machine shop used plain bronze bushes , and not oilite type of bushes as the shafts are very slow turning.

I haven't been able to use it yet, as i am no where near having my 1920 on the road.
Regards Jack

Then you most probably should have the same steering system as on Solan, I think. I intend to recheck my steering as it is not accurate enough, and "too loose". The teeth of the cog wheels and sector are fine, and the woodruff keys locking them also good, but I still have to make some improvements there.

I also have a feeling of the firewall being somewhat moved when the car is not moving and I use the steering. Do I have to replace the old firewall with new wood?

I cannot see that the steering tube should affect the firewall. Is your steering very stiff? If Solans bushings for the steering shaft are as bad as mine, I guess that your arm power could cause a small movement both in dashbord and in the firewall. If not - why not just cut out a little of the wood from the firewall?

Larsson.
The 1916-1917 490's have a set of gears mounted on the firewall, Yours should have the long steering shaft with the steering box mounted down on the frame at the front axle area.

Hi Solan

Read the post from Jack. Not very wise to cut out some wood fram the firewall, I guess ... And I don't know if stiffness still can be a problem for Solan.

If you have the above described steering system, Per-Åke, then I think Oistein Getz/Drobak could have used parts for a possible repair on your car. I think you already have the adress/phone #.

It may look like I will have to bring the whole system to a work shop for a complete overhaul when I find someone willing to do the work and not robbing all the money in my ourse. The last part could be the most difficult one, or what?