I'm getting ready for initial startup of my 36 Master, after some years of frame-off restoration, including engine rebuilding. I want to start up with minimal accessories. No lights, no generator (yet), just starter, ignition switch (Electrolok), coil, distributor, ammeter.

So far I have attached the positive cable from the battery to the starter post, battery ground, wire from starter post to ammeter, and wire from ammeter to one pole of the ignition switch.

Questions:
1. Does it matter what pole the wire from the starter goes to on the ammeter? I currently have it on the left-hand pole, but not going through the fuse. The wire from the ammeter to the ignition switch is attached to the right hand pole of the ammeter, also not through the fuse. Correct so far?
2. The wiring diagram shows the other side of the ignition switch going to the gas tank sending unit. If I don't have this attached, should this just go directly to ground?
3. Originally there was a second wire on the starter post. Where does this go? The wiring diagram only shows the connection to the ammeter.

Hope this makes sense.

Just an update: I found that my 5 year old battery was marginal, couldn't turn the starter at all. New battery, bench tested starter--turns ok. But under load it barely turns at all. I'll take it to an auto electric shop to check it out this week before proceeding. I assume that the starter needs to be in top form to start this rebuilt engine.

You might also have a bad ground or your engine is so tight that you might need a 12 volt battery to start the car. Try putting a battery charger with six volts and a "start" mode on the battery while starting and see what happens.

Thanks. As far as the battery ground, I used a grinder and cleaned off an area around the hole where I've mounted the negative ground from the battery to the frame. It's the heavy flat metal braid-type ground wire, so I think that's find. I did the same grinding for the starter where it mates with the bell housing. Just to be sure, I'll run a separate ground from the starter mounting bolt to the battery ground and see if that helps.

I don't have a start mode on my charger, but may check into getting one of these. I think I'll have the starter checked out by a shop anyway. I put a new bendix drive in it, but it still has the old brushes.

If the starter checks out okay then your engine is probably a little too tight for the six volt starter to adequately turn the engine over. You might have to use a 12 volt starter instead.

The heavy wire from the batter (starter switch) goes to the right side of the ammeter. If hooked up incorrectly theammeter will read backwards.

The wire on the left side of the switch is hot and feeds the gas gauge - should not be grounded but the gauge should.

If there was a second wire it is not required BUT if it has the accessory factory dual horns it would be for them.

Theis is the second query of late about a fresh engine not turning over with a 6 V battery. Just jump it with a 12 V or use the boost battery charger position if you have one.

Years ago before the 12 V sysems they took the car out on the road and pushed it with another vehicle to get it started. The 6 V starter power is very marginal.

I don't think I'll try push-starting...no steering installed yet (ha). Will run the wire to the gas gauge and sender unit as you mentioned.

Took the starter to a local electric shop today, and the mechanic there (80ish gentleman) asked if I wanted him to re-wind it for 12 volts. When I mentioned that I wanted to keep it original, he said "I don't understand why all you young guys (I'm 56) want to keep everything original!" I think he knows his stuff though.

I assume if I use a 12 volt battery to start it initially, that it won't harm the starter or coil, etc.??

The starter will work just fine on 12 volts as long as you only run the starter for short periods of time. On the coil and distributor, wire those to your six volt battery. The only thing that should be on your 12 volt battery is the starter.

Got it! Thanks.

You're welcome!

Just an update: Got my starter back from the electric shop. They replaced brushes and it runs much faster on the bench. But still doesn't turn the engine over fast enough. Waiting on new 6v charger with start mode that is on order. I'll try that next. Then I'll move to using a 12v battery.

I had the same problem on my freshly rebuilt 206.8 before it was broken in. I just hooked a 12 volt battery to the starter and left everything else hooked up to the 6 volt battery. In time the starter could spin it fast enough to start it on 6 volts as the engine was broken in.
Richard

I have always just jumped it with 12 volts and left everything connected. As long as you don't crank for an exrended time and disconnect the 12 V as soon as it starts there is no problem.

Hey Chevgene:
You mentioned that you have jump started with 12 volts with everything connected. If you do that, will it damage the gas gauge and amp gauge. My body shop has my car and they said they had to jump start it with a portable 12 volt battery. Now I see that the gas and amp gauges are not functioning. I guess even a short duration jolt of 12 volts probably fried my gauges. Do you think they are permamently damaged? If so, are they toast or can I repair them? I have not seen too many of these gauges at the swap meets, so I hope they are not toast.

I have never heard of that happening or have had it happen.....after 35 years of doing including using my booster pac on members cars while on tours etc.
The ammeter reads amps and not volts and as long as the 12 V was not left connected for a very extended time is should cause no harm The only thing I watch for is to not have the automatic dome light go on as the bulb gets very bright but not for long.
If the ammeter would actually be burnt out no current would no longer pass through it???
I think you have another problem.

No telling how long the shop had the 12 volt booster connected and yes it will damage a good 6 volt gas gage dash unit if it is connected very long with the power on the dash unit. It happens all the time to guys that modify the electrical system to 12 volt and even those that use an el cheap-o resistor to drop the voltage to the dash unit to around 6 volts. The good news is that it don't hurt the engine to run out of gasoline We have proved that almost on every Southern Fall Tour!

One problem I found using the 12 volt jump is I had a LED brake light in the rear window and had my foot on the brake when I turned the 12 volt portable on. It did fry the 6 volt LEDs

Thats why you need to stop and think what lights could be burning or if any other elerical equipment is turned on. Then connect the 12 V and disconnect it as soon as the engine is running. While cranking the starter will be reducing the voltage to a safer level.
As I said in all the years the worst thing that ever happened is I burnt out a dome light bulb because the drivers door was open. Never leave the 12 V connected to move the car around in a shop, etc.

Can the gas and amp gauge be repaired?

Is just the gas gauge sending unit damaged, or is the gauge also affected?

All the parts can be repaired. It is just a matter of cost versus replacement.