Hello,

What are the sizes for the freeze/sand plugs in a 36? I'm going to be putting some in--the machine shop didn't.

Also, are there supposed to be rubber seals/cups over the valve guides? One rebuilder put them on, but I haven't seen them on original engines I have. I wasn't sure if they would interfere with the oiling of the valve guides/stems, or if it would burn too much oil without.

And one final question--what should the valves be set to cold (initial setting before starting the engine)? Hot I think is 13 thousandths for the exhaust and 8 thousandths for the intake.

Thanks much!

P.S. I learned a lesson not to use aftermarket "valve silencers" that use a ball/spring for the adjusters. One of them apparently let the ball slip out of the socket at times, and would hold the exhaust valve open--eventually the valve guide burned through (the valve itself didn't burn)

The parts book shows a 1936 as having a 1 1/2" on the left side of the block and at the rear of the block. It also shows a 2" on the left side of the block. These are not the cup type but the more flat style. You can check the opening sizes to verify.
The 1948 was the first year to have "something" to prevent excessive oil from running down the valve guides. The oil can burn and cause the valve to hang-up in the guide due to carbon deposits.
I have run my 1934 and 1939 for years with an umbrella type shedder on the valve stem and have had no problem.
I would set the valves at about 8 and 15 for the inital start-up and readjust them later to the .008 and .013" or what ever you prefer.

There are actually three 1-1/2" freeze plugs on a 1936 206 block: one on the left side, and two on the rear. The upper rear plug is visible, but the lower plug is concealed completely by the bell housing. I know this because mine blew out while driving and I had to remove the bell housing, clutch and trans to replace it. Not fun. Photo attached.

http://s292.photobucket.com/albums/mm24/winowally/?action=view&current=LowerFreeze.jpg

Thanks for the information--much help! I had measured the side one at about 2", but wasn't sure about the others.

Thanks again for the responses Gene and WinoWally. I have the head off the engine currently in the car to fix the burned valve guide. Wanted to do this to continue driving the car for now. But I have another engine that has new parts, machined, and is in fact ready to go back together--but back injury/surgery have been postponing that. My brother is doing a lot of the work but don't want to impose too much. Gene your advice and parts have been very helpful!

Just wanted to say thanks to you and everyone else in the VCCA for your help!

So

Oops! It just dawned on me another question before my brother "helps" (i.e. does everything for me) bolt the head back on. What is a good torque value for the head bolts? And while I'm asking--what is the recommended torque for the connect rod bolts?
--Joel

The head bolts 70 foot pounds with oiled threads.
Connecting rods 40 .