Got a great buy on Ebay for a 1930 original shop repair manual for only $2.00. Read the section on clutch removal and it states to remove engine from frame and undo the 8 cap nuts 1/2 turn at a time to release spring pressure and then then simply remove clutch. Question - do I really have to yank the motor first or can the clutch be removed without removing the motor? If I remove the floor boards - is there not enough room to remove the clutch with motor in place? I want to remove the clutch next week to send it out for rebuilding. There is a company here in Canada that says it will rebuild the clutch and machine the plate for $100 US. I am going to give them a try - if their work is good - I will post their company info here for others.
thanks again for your help
Maurice

Seems to me that I removed the clutch plate once without doing anything to the engine.

But I have another question for you. Are you going to resurface just the pressure plate and not the flywheel? I've always done both at the same time.

The price quoted included the flywheel machining - seems very reasonable and the company was recommended by the Antique Car Museum up here. If I drop the universal joint and drive shaft and unbolt the tranny and remove from car - my past mechanical experiences says it should work - Wondered why the book says to pull motor first?

Hey moedip, I don't think the 31 is much differant than the 30 and I don't have to pull the engine. The worst part is taking apart the brake cross bar so you can lower the drive line enough to pull the trans. After that it almost falls out by its self.

You must remove the transmission support from the engine as well, because the transmission is bolted onto the transmission support from the inside, which is completely different than on a 1931.

Thanks guys - I'll keep you posted!

This weekend I started on the car. I must say I am impressed in several ways. First - the bottom of this car looks like it came out of the showroom - a great piece of restoration! Second - what a pleasure working on this car compared to new ones! Taking my time - I disconnected the brake rods from the center link and dropped the center link - took about an hour - real easy - this car is high enough off the ground that I didn't even have to jack it up to get under it comfortably! After I removed the brake center link I removed the floor boards then I took off the four bolts from the tube housing and slid it back, drained the oil from the tranny and undid the 4 nuts from the universal joint. For some reason one bolt did not want to slide out easy but a little pressure from a screwdriver on the bracket and the back part of the universal slid off the bolts and I retracted it into the drive tube and lowered the drive tube. I then unbolted the park brake from the tranny and lowered the assy to the ground. Then I removed the clutch pedal assy, removed the clutch spring and removed the brake pedal assy. Then supporting the tranny on a jack I undid the bolts on the bell housing and moved the tranny back until the shaft was completely free of the clutch - then lowered the tranny to the ground. This has to be the simplest tranny removal I have ever done! Since it was getting dark, I left the clutch in for removal tonight. I did notice however that the clutch throwout collar was covered in bright red rust or dust powder. When I took the collar out - the surface that sits against the bearing was a deep gunmetal blue - like it was overheated. The blue covered the entire face over 3/4 of the surface and was about 1/4" narrower on about 1/4 of the surface. Could my clutch grabbing and jatter be the result of a bad throwout bearing? I will check tonite - what should I be looking for on the bearing? The clutch -without being taken out - looks positively new - no surface rust or anything. As I said previously this motor and tranny were rebuilt in '93 and only has about 76 miles on it -all from driving in slowing moving parades for about 5 miles a year. Any quick way to check clutch before sending out for rebuild? Could a bad throw out bearing that maybe isn't turning against the throwout collar causing it to overheat cause the grabbing and jatter? The jatter is so bad the whole car shakes when you let out the clutch normally but if you let the car idle and very slowly let the clutch out - it will engage fine - any increase over idle speed while letting the clutch out causes supreme car shaking jatter. Any advice will be appreciated.
thanks :p :p

Took the clutch out last night - the friction material was burnt and gummy in areas - definately bad - sent the clutch, and flywheel out to get rebuilt. The graphite throwout bearing and collar that looks overheated was sent to the clutch place as well for analysis. There is pitting in the face of the collar that is gunmetal blue where the graphite runs on - does not look right. Made an alignment tool from a VW tranny shaft to line up the clutch plate for when I re-install it. Have learned that the shop manual is INDESPENSIBLE when working on these cars. Anyone not familiar with these older cars must have one before working on them as the book contains many tips and info that a person will not think of. For example - on first look - the graphite bearing looks like it should rotate in the holder - and there even is a grease nipple on the outside of the holder. It should rotate - NOT! The book says the bearing is securely fastened into the holder and does not rotate. The grease nipple is to fill the holder with light oil for lubrication. Without the book a person could destroy the bearing trying to get it to rotate - which -when you look at the bearing - seems logical.Discovered a new Canadian beer - Sleeman Honey Brown - very smooth!! Will sip away until I hear back on the clutch!

Well - heard back - clutch material is packed with oil - the guy says major oil penetration into the fibres causing them to swell but the clutch material thickness was like new - hardly any wear. The bell housing inside is pretty clean and dry with only a little oil on the bottom by the weep hole. I know there is no rear seal on motor and the metal on the clutch itself was dry but the inside of the clutch housing has a good covering of oil. Since the clutch was in there 8 years and the car driven very little except in parades - is it possible that revving the engine with the clutch pushed in or riding the clutch for extended periods of time would cause it to absorb so much oil? Any ideas or experiences with something like this? The clutch will be ready for pick up Thursday. Any help or opinions would be appreciated.
thanks

So isn't another question - "Where is the oil coming from?" It would seem that the tranny shaft is leaking from the transmission. Or the rear main.

I've never had a throwout bearing go bad so I can't comment on that.

I've had clutch plates that had a little oil all around them but not that they "hurt" the plate... maybe they burnt a little but not enough to cause the chattering that you originally mentioned.

Did you also look for the pilot bearing on the end of your tranny? Where it fits into the flywheel/crank?

Now that the tranny is out, can you check on the wear of the shaft?

I don't find anything in your description that leads me to the obvious problem... at least not to the original problem.

Anybody else?

By the way, I felt sorry for you until you mentioned the new beer that you found!! ha!! Sounds great!!

Had a real close look last night. The tranny shaft is bone dry absolutely no seepage from the tranny and the tranny shaft is in excellent condition. The clutch cover at the back of the engine is covered in oil - the oil is definately coming from the rear of the engine. There is a large puddle on the inside of the bottom of the bell housing - so a lot of oil had leaked from the engine. Knowing that this is a splash type system with no rear seal - I am wondering if the oil pan could have been overfilled by the previous owner or if he had parked the car on a steep driveway and ran the engine many times. I know a little seepage from the rear of the motor is normal - but the wetness on this one is really bad. Unless someone can come up with some ideas - I think my best bet is to clean the rear of the engine and bell housing - drain the oil from the engine and put in 5 quarts and check the level on the dipstick to make sure the proper dipstick is being used and the engine is not being overfilled. The motor runs real quiet and smooth so I doubt the rear bearing is bad - there is no hint of any knocking. Even so - can the rear bearing allow too much oil to splash out?
On the graphite throwout bearing - mine is good - for now - but I found a company in Pennsylvania that sells graphite cylinders and it looks like the new era graphite with a tensile strength of 7500 lbs would make a great replacement bearing for the throwout bearing seeing that the clutch pressure is only 1000 lbs. I am waiting for them to give me a final price on a cylinder 3" round by 4" long. He figures it will be under $30. I will machine it on a lathe and cut it into several new replacement bearings. When mine goes - I will try the replacement - Could be a solution for some people wanting to rebuild theirs.
For those wanting to lube their pilot bearing - I found a great product by Libriplate called 730-2 part# 08598 . It is a white multi-purpose hi-temp, non-corrosive, extreme pressure, anti-wear, water repellant grease which we use on our manufacturing machines. Should make an ideal lube even for shackles and it comes in a grease gun cartridge. Just thought I would mention it. It is a little expensive at $9.00CDN for a tube but it does work great.
Any ideas on why the oil leaks out the rear of the engine so bad will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers!

On the cap of the rear bearing is a check ball (see your owner's manual). Make sure that your check ball is in the down position and that it is free. Many times this ball is stuck in the up (or closed) position not allowing the circulated oil to return to the oil pan.

Thanks Junkyard - I am at the office - no manual in my hand - To get to this check ball - I presume I have to drop the oil pan - after that is it hard to see or get to or is it plain and simple - there? really appreciate the tip - sounds like it could be the problem and at the same time I can check out the sludge level in the engine. I'll order a new oil pan gasket from Filling Station today. thanks again.

A 1931 engine I just rebuilt had a leak at the rear main bearing. Someone at some time had enlarged the oil supply hole. It couldn't drain fast enough and it leaked. This was the first time I ever had this problem. I removed the check ball and the car has now been driven about 100 miles without a sign of a leak. I have not tried Doug Bell's remedy. In "Cast Iron Wonder" he suggested cutting a groove in the rear main bearing for an oil drain. Also, I noticed that the 1932 engine has an extra drain hole and a larger check ball.

Thank you! I can hardly wait for the weekend to see if this is the problem! I really think you guys hit the nail on the head!

Once you drop the oil pan, the check ball on the rear main bearing cap is totally visible. There is a verticle pin holding the ball in place. If you see the pin, but not the ball, then it is probably stuck up in the top of the drain hole. If you want to remove the ball, just remove the pin and then the ball will come right out once it is in the "down" position, which is when it is resting against the vertical pin. Let us know what you find!

HEY GUYS, THIS IS GREAT, IT'S LIKE READING A "WHO-DONE-IT", CAN'T WAIT FOR THE NEXT CHAPTER. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!

Well - got the bad news this AM - my clutch cover plate is cracked in a couple of places by the bolt holes. The good news is they can repair but I won't get the clutch back until next week - price has gone up to $200 CDN. Still a good deal. They also told me they used to have 10 1930-31 new graphite throwout bearings in stock that another company bought up last year. I am waiting to hear from the guy to see what he wants for one. The company takes VISA so if anyone else wants one - post on this thread and when he calls me I will post the price and give those who are interested his phone number - the guy is only 20 minutes away from me.

Check with the Filling Station in Lebanon, Oregon, because I believe that they have some NOS throwout bearings in stock.

Just got the clutch back fully refurbished and the flywheel machined. The end price was $377 CDN. Unfortunately, last week end I was on the receiving end of an encounter with a chain saw that got me in the leg. Luckily - it missed the tendons and arteries and the nerves to the foot - sore as hell but the Doc says full recovery with no side effects. So - I will not be able to re-install clutch until the week end at earliest. I will keep everyone posted. In the meantime - thank you to the American club members who have helped me so much in getting to know this car. Have a Great 4th of July and God Bless America!!!

Have recuperated enough to start on the 30 Chevy again. I looked underneath last night and saw the cover with the indent for the checkball and pin under the rear bearing held on by four bolts. It looks like I have to remove the flywheel cover from the back of the engine first to get at them - which will be a good time to clean up the oily mess on the back of the engine. One question the books don't address - do I have to drop the oil pan first to get the rear bearing cover off or do I just undo the 4 bolts and it will drop off? Thanks again for your help.
Maurice

Drop the oil pan.

Thank you - will do!

OK - Think I have the problem in hand. When I went to drop the oil pan - all the bolts were so loose - I took them out by hand. The rear bearing area where the crank exits the block behind the 4" plate on the crank that the flywheel bolts onto was bone dry. When you came down to the curved rear gasket seal area on the crank holding plate - the 4 bolts that hold it to the block and bottom of it were covered in oil. I think all my grief was due to poor maintenace of the oil pan bolts by the previous owner. From what I can deduce- the oil was leaking along the oil pan gasket and with forward speed - travelled along it to the back of the motor. The top of the front bottom plate that covers the bottom front of the flywheel and is held on by 2 bolts on each side, stops at the same height as the oil pan gasket on the motor. There is about 1/8" open space between this plate and the bottom of the motor which creates an open window for the oil flowing along the oil pan gasket to have wind blow it into the clutch area. Please realize that there was not much oil along the sides of the oil pan - it seems to have leaked more at higher revs when driving and then gets pushed back and gets into the clutch area. When the car was parked - there were no oil spots on the ground along the length of the oil pan - just at the rear. I cleaned up the oil pan and reinstalled along with the clutch last night and will finish assembling later this week end.
But before I do - the engine is definately the wrong color - it is GM engine blue - like the sky. I found some Dupont paint at my Auto Supply House that is called #1906 or #1908 - can't remember and I am at work -Chevrolet Engine Blue high heat paint- It is a hard to describe color - it is a dark blue -almost looks like a hint of navy in it with a greyish tinge to the blue. Is this the correct color? If it is - I will hold off putting the car together and pull the motor - which is easy now - and repaint it first.
I would appreciate a response on the engine color. thanks
maurice

Hey moedip;
Check the G&D for Bill Hearsh's e-mail address and order the engine paint right on line. I believe it's the correct color and he's not cheap but it's good stuff. I've had it on my '32 for years and it holds up like iron.
RGwiz

Thanks - I'll check him out!

The original color for the 1932 engine was a dark blue-gray.....it looks almost black. The paint that Bill Hirsch sells is not the correct color. It is way too light of a gray. You can get the correct paint from the Filling Station in Lebanon, Oregon since they had the engine paint color matched to the original color and they are now making it. Most dudes are now using the paint from the Filling Station since many of them know that Bill Hirsch's paint is incorrect, and it has been wrong since he began making it decades ago. I believe that the Filling Station sells the paint both in spray cans and in quarts so that the paint can be used in a spray gun.

Glad to hear that you have your oil leak problem solved. Good going!

Thanks for the thumbs up Junkyard - but remember -it is only my experienced theory so far- will reply back with a big YAHOO!!! when I drive it for the first time!!

As the JunkYardDog said, call the Filling Station for the right color engine paint, the stuff from Bill Hirsch is not the correct color . Been there done that not pleased with the results.

Just a question JunkYardDog and 29 Chevy, are any of Bill H's engine paints correct? how about his other stuff? does he have the Jaxon lug bolts and clamping lugs?

I don't know for sure if Bill's 4 cylinder engine enamel is correct or not. I have heard from several dudes that it's not. However, Ray would be the one to ask this question since I know that he has done a lot of research on this. Anyway, I have heard lots of horror stories about Bill's gas tank sealer (also had personal experience with it), his high temp. manifold paint and so on over the years.

Okie Doakie!
Nuff said for me to make up my mind! I kinda like the way I had my 1952's '54 261 engine painted:
J.D. Green for the block and head,the Fram oil filter,starter & generator were J.D. Yellow and the valve cover and fan was IH Farmall Red!
(The paint was in the farmers shop that let me change engines in back in 1958.)

Don't order the paint from Bill Hersch if you want the correct color. The Filling Station sells a dark blue gray paint matched to the original color. I am not aware of the DuPont paint but it could be the correct stuff.

Hey guys;
Thanks for that correction. You all can't be wrong. I based my statement on the fact that a friend of mine year's ago, painted his engine with Bill's paint. His '32 sport coup took a VCCA Senior first at Hershey back then. He lived here in NJ. My engine is painted with the same paint and it looks good, and held up fine. I don't plan to ever take a Senoir first with it so I don't care. I'll just drive it until I have to re-build it again.
Oh, buy the way. I also used his gas tank blatter too. Well that's holding up, It's been only 20 yrs! I'm not Bill's buddy, but the stuff worked. Now if I can find a gas guage to work in a blatter tank! Hello Mr. Mothershead! Got one?
RGwiz

Hey Rwiz is that the guy that had the leaky head? or the sonny with the wiper hose problem? I been out of Coors for a while and That Budwipper Light is makeing me me see two two of evveetything everythingg???two of everything?? Two of everything?? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Hey, Mr.Mack
Now I know why they call ya Wacky!
Yeah, I'm the guy with the leaky head. Sonny had the wiper question. No I'm not out of BudLites. Just haven't had any since Sunday's Race. Maybe you should stick to the Bud Suds and lay off the Poor Coors. That stuff always got me silly sick.
RGwiz
PS. And I still don't know Bill Hearsh.

I don't know any Bill Hircshey either! Just Sonny with the sore head and the other guy wipeing his nose, Ha!

see you in the funny paper!

Junkyard Dog - HELP! - Slowly getting the car back together. Got the oily mess on the engine and bell housing all cleaned - clutch re-installed - transmission back on and am at the stage to reconnect the universal joint and put the clutch and brake pedals back on the shaft on the side of the tranny. I cussed for 3 hours last night. Remember when I said I had to pry the universal bearing retainer plate off after I removed the 4 nuts? Well - trying to get the rear plate to go onto the 4 studs of the front plate was impossible - so after much cursing I reamed the holes on the rear plate slightly so it can slide on the four studs easily. Now - I looked at the pix in the manual of the device that holds the front retainer farther back so you can start the nuts and tried many times to make different hook tools to try and accomplish it - NO LUCK! Any ideas on a simpler way to get the retainers to stay closer together to get the nuts started????
Second problem - When I removed the clutch and brake pedal assys from the stud on the side of the tranny - what I took off (in order from the tranny out) was : compression spring, brake pedal assy, link that had 2 bolt holes that attached to a rod assy that went to the braking system center link, clutch pedal assy, clip at end of shaft. I put everything back in that order but cannot hook up the link to the brake center link as the universal is not installed yet. My clutch pedal (because of the return spring hooked up to the clutch adjuster on the end of the release fork ) springs upward way past the high point it should go to. According to the manual there is an adjustable clutch stop on the tranny shaft between the clutch pedal assy and the brake pedal assy. I have no such thing. I checked the underside of the floor board where the clutch pedal comes through and there is no wear - so the pedal when it comes up did not hit the floor board. What am I doing wrong with assembly?? I must be missing something - that's what happens when you leave something apart for over a month and try to figure out how to re-assemble! A few beers also added to the problem. Since the only thing I have that goes in between the clutch and brake pedal is the link with two bolt holes and is about 3" long - is this somehow used to achieve the top return limit on the clutch pedal? I have read the owner's manual, shop manual and the good Chevy SIX restoration book - until I am blue in the face and there is no pix of the assembly of items on this transmission stud - In frustration I ask -- HELP!!!
Thanks

Yes, the "U" joint front and rear retainers are very difficult to get line up so that the four studs will go through the holes. There was a special tool to do this, but you don't have the option of using that tool. However, I was able to put the two retainers together on my car using my fingers and a screwdriver. There is no easy method to do this since you will have to devise your own method, but I was able to get the back half and the front half to line up with my fingers and both retainers went together nicely. It took a while, but once they lined up, the studs went through just fine.

On your brake pedal and clutch pedal shaft, here is how the parts go on the shaft...from the transmission support out:

1. Stop for both the brake and clutch pedals, and the connector for the adjustable pull rod that connects to the brake cross shaft.

2. Brake Pedal

3. Clutch Pedal

4. Spring clip on the end of the shaft that holds both pedals in place.

On the bottom of the clutch pedal is an eyelet for the clutch fork adjuster. That is a "candy cane" style of bolt that hooks into the eyelet on the bottom of the clutch fork. The threaded end of the adjuster goes through the eye of the clutck fork, and a special adjusting nut is then threaded onto the end of the adjusting bolt.

The cross shaft brace is connected to the eyelet on the brake pedal. The clutch pedal return spring is connected from the rear engine frame crossmember to the clutch fork.

Good luck!

It appears I am missing the brake stop from the link joiner with the 2 bolt holes that the link to the center link bolts onto. On the clutch - I have the mechanism hooked up right for setting the freeplay when you push DOWN on the clutch pedal - my problem is there is nothing to stop the clutch pedal from coming UP too far other than the floorboard. Am I also missing a piece for this? - Could you email pix of those parts so I can fabricate the missing parts from the pix? Unless you know where I could find them??Thanks for the help - i appreciate it!

When the adjusting link (from the clutck fork to the eye in the peddle) is connected and adjusted does that not keep the peddle adjusted for clearance to the toe board? Just curious.

Not on this car - the clutch return spring connected from the frame to the clutch fork pulls the clutch pedal up way too high. Let's say the clutch pedal is at 12:00 at normal up - when you push in the clutch it goes to 10:00. on my car (without the floorboard in place) the clutch pedal returns to rest at about 2:00. I need a stop assy that will only allow it to come back to 12:00 position and stop and miss the floorboards by about 1/2". that is my dilema.

Just thinking - the clutch fork (when disconnected from the pedal assy) has about 3" of play before the throwout bearing hits the collar. Is this normal? - I don't see how - but if this is not right then I put something together wrong. The clutch collar can only go in one way - right? The four prongs on the end of it have to be seated all the way in - right? If the collar is in right - then the 3" free play of the fork before the throwout bearing hits the collar is normal and without a stop - the 2:00 position cannot be avoided.

From what you described in your earlier posting, it sounds like you do have the connecting link, but you placed it between the brake and clutch pedals instead of between the brake pedal and the transmission support. Nothing goes between the brake and clutch pedals.

Yes, there is a clutch pedal stop and it is the same one that is used for the brake pedal stop. It also goes between the brake pedal and the transmission support (bolted to the connecting link) and the stop is wide enough to cross in front of both the brake and the clutch pedals.

Sorry, I don't have a digital camera so photos are not available of this assembly.

Thanks Junkyard - It sounds like a very simple piece of metal. If you have access to one - can you email the measurements and I will construct one. From what you are saying it sounds like a piece of metal about 3" long that bolts to the link bar then bends at 90 degrees at the top towards the pedal assemblies . Then - how long and wide is the top piece? Is 1/8" steel heavy enough to use? I have equipment to make it with all I need are the measurements.
thanks
Maurice

A nice man from Washington state named Raymond emailed me about assembling the universal and suggested using shop wire to pull the forward retainer back from top and bottom and secure the wires then start the nuts - remove the wire and then take off one nut at a time and put the washer in and re-start the nut. It is real easy this way - took all of 20 minutes to do the job. What a great universal joint install tip!!
On the pedal stop - there definately was not one on this car. I am going to start to fabricate one tonight to bolt onto the link joiner. It would be nice if someone had a pix of one for a 1930 coupe - so I can make it as close to stock as possible. Without a pix - it will be functional but not stock like. Anyone with a pix or sketch they can provide???? Junkyard - is this stop unit made from one solid piece or is there an adjustment screw for the clutch and brake to adjust the pedal height??? Thank you in advance
maurice

IS THERE ANY WAY TO DRAW ON THIS PROGRAM? THIS QUESTION NEEDS TO GO TO BILL I GUESS. IT WOULD HELP IN SITUATIONS LIKE THIS IF THERE WAS A BASIC "DRAW" PROGRAM. MAYBE JunkYardDog CAN USE SOME OF THE KEYS TO MAYBE DRAW A BASIC DESIGN?? JUST BRAINSTORMING, FORGIVE MY LACK OF KNOWLEDGE ABOUT COMPUTERS.

Hi moedip,

Thanks for the comments on the U-Joint tip. Sorry none of the pictures worked out for you. The part number you need is 358641. I would suggest you check with your nearest Chevrolet dealer. (Don't you wish it was that simple.)

Moedip: Yes, the clutch and brake pedal stop is all one piece and there are no adjustment screws on the stop for the pedals. The stop is attached on the pedal shaft, between the brake pedal and the transmission support. It is cut out around both the brake and clutch pedals, and the top edge of the stop is long enough to rest against both pedal shafts. The stop is also connected to the brake cross shaft brace via two bolts. The cross shaft brace is adjustable. There are also keepers on the bolts to keep them from turning. The pedal stop is made out of heavy stamped steel.

So if I understand you correctly - I take a small piece of thin steel with a hole in it to slide onto the tranny stud. This piece is vertical. I then take a piece of flat steel and lay it horizontally on the piece with the hole so that it extends past the clutch pedal shaft by a bit and goes past the brake pedal shaft to the top of the link with 2 holes in it. I then take a piece of steel and make two crescent slots in it to align with the 2 holes on the brake link. This piece is then put vertically beside the link with 2 holes and both vertical pieces are welded to the horizontal piece. The vertical pieces will be about 1/16" thick and the horizontal piece about 1/8" thick. Adjustment will be by loosening the 2 bolts on the brake link and rocking this assembly on the crescent slots for proper brake postion then tightening the two link bolts. Does this sound like the part??

Hi Ray - thank you for your help - it made life easy. What lubricant goes into the fitting at the top of the universal joint housing? I know the grease fitting on the throwout bearing is for oil - not grease. What goes into the universal joint ? By the way - your "handle " sounds like you work on on Chevy radios. If you do - let me know if you need any tubes for repairing them - I used to be a radio TV repair man and have a few hundred tubes from the 50's-60's for TV's and radio still in their original boxes.

Yes, what you described for making the brake and clutch pedal stop is dead on. However, your metal is not thick enough! All of it should be 3/16" thick! By the way, why don't you see if you can find a pedal stop instead of making one? There are a lot of 1930 parts cars out there, and the stop shouldn't be that hard to find.

On the Universal Joint retainer, you put in 1/2 pint of 600W or whatever you are using for tranny fluid. No more than 1/2 pint or it will leak out of the speedometer cable fitting.

Thanks JunkYardDog - There is nothing in this part of the country for that part - unless someone knows where one is - Fabricating it is not a hard job with the proper tools - should not take more than 2-3 hours. If you or anyone else has a sketch or pix of it - please fax it to me at 1-800-887-5644. It would help me out. Thanks for all your help - could not have gotten this far without it!!!

Glad to help you out my friend!

Hey Moedip! Wanted to let you know that the pedal stop is also bent at an angle just before it butts up against the base of the pedal shafts. Coming off of the cross shaft adjustable support brace, the stop has one angle (going up to the base of the pedal shafts), and then it bends again at another angle just before the stop touches both pedals. Hope this helps you some.

JunkYardDog, Is there a chance that a 28 would have the same peddle stop? if they do I can take a picture and send it to Mo, Or if any of you can send me a pic I will work it around cyberspace and post it here, Mo NEEDS some help!

Part is correct for 30-31 only.

Ok , Thanks for letting me know Ray, Sorry I couldn't help. Mo , Just a curious question, How did the contrary thing work before you tore it down to fix the clutch? Did you look in the wash tank, I have found lots of missing things in mine, several after I went and bought a replacement! ( but that is me)

SUCCESS!! - Thank you all for your help!! I fabricated a pedal stop from 3 pieces of 3/16"x1" stock steel. 2 pieces 2 1/2" long and 1 piece 3" long. After careful measuring and welding and grinding I came up with a slick mechanism that can adjust the pedals from touching floorboards to 1" away from the floorboards. I set it so the pedals are 1/2" from the floorboards and the clutch has just over 1" free play everything works perfect! Thanks again for all the help!! New I go on to electrical stuff. Have started 2 new threads - see you there!!!