Ok, long story, but here goes, A few weeks, I put in my new gas tank and rebuilt fuel pump. I blew out all of the original lines and the car started up fine. I let it idle for several minutes, shut it down, restarted it etc. that night. It idled high, but it idled, I did not make any carb adjustments or the like. The only item to note is that I did not have the accelerator pedal or return spring hooked up.

A week later I went to start it again, this time with the goal of making adjustments, idle etc. After cranking it over a few times gas came pouring out of the carb. I just took the carb out, and found that the float must have a hole, due to the sloshing noise it makes when I shake it. I replaced the float with a spare and using carb cleaner I recleaned the entire carb. I even replaced the leather seal in the accelerator pump. Note that this is still an original relatively carb. All of the parts move nice and easy. I did notice some screw driver marks on screws under the brass bowl but I did not touch them. I reinstalled the carb, hooked everything up and cranked it over, it started for a few seconds, and then stalled. I tried cranking it over again and noticed that once again I had gas pouring out of the carb.

Any suggetions? Could it be possible that my fuel pressure is to high due to the rebuilt pump? I did reuse the original needle and seat, I have a viton needle and seat but am hesitant to put it in due to another thread I read on them.

Check the float adjustment on the replacement float for the correct level. Also check for dirt in the needle and seat area.

As a test you might want to change the needle & seat just to see if that cures the problem.

I reset the float adjustment to 11/16 per a gauge I had with a rebuild kit, Would this be correct? I had taken the needle and seat out and cleaned them when I replaced the float. Is it possible the float could get stuck in a "down position".

The float setting should be 3/4" and that measurement is taken with the bowl gasket removed.

Yes, the needle could get stuck open but when it does it is most likely a piece of dirt is keeping it from seating.

As the Junkie Dog wrote 3/4" is the correct float setting. It is measured from the machined edge to the top of the float without the bowl gasket in place.

I also suspect trash in the needle/seat. Could also be plugged vent hole, bad seat gasket, bad needle or seat, float hung up on the carb body or a few other uncommon problems.

If the carb ran well once it should again.

I guess I will have to take the carb back off, and recheck everything. I appreciate help.

Carb problems update, I took the carb off and found a small amount of fuel in the float. I replaced the float, reset the height and put the carb back on. I hooked up everything except the gas pedal and return spring (spring is broke and this is the only way I was sucessful in starting the motor previously). The car started right up. However, when I pushed in the choke cable the car started racing, Note that the throttle cable was in the "closed" position. What I find strange is that as I pushed the choke cable "in" the engine raced. If I closed it partially, I could get it to idle better. Moving the throttle cable did not make any differance. One other item to note is that it smoked bad. Obviously it is running rich. I guess I need to back off on the mixture screw.

I did however, rig the broken return spring up and was unable to really start the car. It wanted to go but would not

any suggestions on adjustments to make it run better

The throttle cable only opens the throttle. It does not close it. It is necessary to have a spring on the throttle lever to close the throttle plate.

I would guess that you don't have the throttle screw in far enough to keep the engine running with a return spring on the throttle lever.

When you ran the engine with the throttle spring off, pulling the choke cable richened the mixture, producing the black smoke and also limiting the engine speed. When pushed in the engine speed would go toward the max. Luckily you did not over rev the engine.

My suggestion is to install all the parts, foot feed rod, return spring, choke cable, throttle cable. Then turn the throttle speed screw clockwise a 1/2 turn to one turn. Try to start the engine. Only pull on the choke knob for a few seconds max while cranking over the engine. Make sure the ignition switch is in the "on" position (the ammeter should fluctuate between zero and a few amps discharge as you turn over the engine when the switch is on.) If it tries to fire but does not run pull out a little on the throttle knob. If it still does not stay running pull out the throttle knob a little more.

Once you have it running then adjust the throttle screw and mixture screws.

Thanks, I will give it a try tomorrow night. I anxious to get it running correctly. My rims should be done this week (painted) and I would love to get it out of the garage. The last two weeks were the first time the car was run was anything lenght of time in 40+ years

Thanks again