What color stripe was used on the early '32 cars (a cream, maybe????) that had the darker brown fenders (paint code #95, Bangor Beige and Haverhill Brown) before the fenders went to the color black later in the production year?

Did the stripe color match the wheel color?

Gator;
#95 shows Cream Medium stripe with Cream Medium wheels. Upper-Haverhill Brown, Lower-Bangor Beige, Door Inserts-Medium Brown Capucino.
Dupont Chevrolet Color Bulletin No. 4, December 1931.
DeLuxe Convertible Cabriolet, and Deluxe Convertible Landau Phaeton.

No mention of the fenders being brown. The only #'s to show other than black on the fenders were #'s 117, 118, 119 and they were the "Pearl Essence" colors and they were only Special Sedans, Dlx Sport Coupe, and Dlx Five Passenger Coupe. Fender colors are #117 Bordeaux Maroon, #118 Cannon Smoke, and # 119 Dagestan Blue.

"Fenders painted a contrasting hue" were used early in the year on a few models. Among them (not always) were the cabriolet and the roadster. The other models had black fenders except for color combinations 117, 118 and 119. After May, the roadster and the cabrilolet had black fenders.

Bangor Beige and Haverhill brown with brown fenders looks very unattractive. Too much brown with no contrast. That particular color combination used with black fenders is awesome and rich looking however!

Even with the contrasting color fenders only the tops were painted that way. The bottoms were still black. In addition to the '32s certain Deluxe 1931 models also had contrasting color fenders, splash aprons, gas tank cover and radiator splash shield. They sure would look goofy with colored fenders and the other chassis sheet metal black.

Hi all; my '32 sport cpe. paint code # 99 has blue(pear essence) main body black top and fenders,med. cream wheels and stripes.

Paint code number 99 is Manganese Blue with black top, black fenders and Cream Medium wire wheels. The striping colors are Cream Medium and Lorraine Blue on the body and Gold Bronze on the fenders.

The only pearl essence colors were paint code numbers 117, 118 and 119.

In 1934 fenders were black enamel for most combinations, lacquered to match body color optional......was this also the same for 1932??

Yup, just overpainted on the top side either by the factory or possibly the dealer.

Chipper, I must be having a brain cramp so can you explain to me what you meant with:

"Even with the contrasting color fenders only the tops were painted that way. The bottoms were still black."

I have a '32, cabriolet with an early Dec. '31 build date.

I have seen some pics of the 95 code with the brown fenders. I really want the car to be original in every way it was when sold in '32, so changing the color of the fenders to black would sort of feel wrong to me.

I have been told (on Chatter) that Chevy switched to black fenders for the cabriolet in May of '32.

Easy to change cowl tags, hard to change build dates... Who knows maybe the VCCA will start requiring people to make their cars match the cowl tags and dates one day.

Hi
Cream medium, 244-6596 is like -74 Toyota T-528, yellow ACME 91781, R-M 4602/TO 224,Finn

Gator: You are getting yourself confused regarding the fender colors on the cabriolet. Prior to May of 1932, on color code number 95, not all cabriolets had brown fenders. They came both ways, black or brown. After May of 1932 all fenders on the cabriolet were black. You can paint your fenders black (with paint number 95 your car will look a lot better that way) and your car will be correct.

"Even with the contrasting color fenders only the tops were painted that way. The bottoms were still black."

What that means is that the underneath side of the fenders were black.

Thanks JunkYardDog, I did not understand that the cabriolet came with either brown or black fenders with paint code 95 prior to May of '32.

I was going by the following answer to my question of "Are you sure the fenders were painted black?":
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Junkyard Dog
Forum Member # 4
posted April 27, 2002 18:28
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It all depends on when your car was made. Some cabriolets did have contrasting colors on the fenders at some factories, but after May 1st, they were all black. However, one thing to note is that with color combination number 95, Haverhill Brown fenders is way too much brown and it detracts from the rest of the car. Black fenders and a Gold Bronze pinstripe really enhances the Bangor Beige and Haverhill Brown color combination.
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Sorry, I have misunderstood the first sentence, since I have an early Dec. '31 built date at Atlanta I assumed the car came with brown fenders.

The second sentence says "some factories" do you know which ones did what? Did the factory (paint some brown and some black) do this on their own or was it ordered by the car buyer?


Guess I will have to sand down to the original color coat to find out...

I agree with Skip. Brown fenders look terrible! I have seen a few and photographed a 32 roadster at Hershey about 1975 with brown fenders. It did absolutely nothing for me. Just a personal observation.

I have black on my roadster and I think they look great.

Which paint code is your roadster? Maybe I will get to see it one day, before I have to paint my car.

The chassis sheet metal including fenders was dipped in black paint, hung on hooks (or fixtures) to let excess paint drip off and then baked dry. If optional fenders then they were top coated with lacquer. Only the top or visable surface was top coated.

From what it says in the book.....if lacquer was used as a top coat directly over enamel back then, it would lift the enamel.

Not a good thing....

So Gator. If your fenders were brown that paint is laying on the highway somewere.
Never lacquer over enamel!
mmmmm ... maybe the color fenders were enamel.

My car was repainted by the original owner to yellow with black fenders.

I had assumed back in BC (before Chatter) that these were the original colors; JunkYardDog decoded the numbers and that is when I found out that it had been repainted to yellow and black.

So I am going to be at the point in time soon when I have to decide about the colors for the car.

Things that are playing with my mind:

--With the VCCA judging rules allowing any '32 paint colors it opens the choices for me.

--What if the VCCA changes the color rules later.

--Do I want it original (total; no added items or paint change).

--Do I want it the way I would like it best, as if I had ordered it in '32 (adding accessories, change color).

--etc




P.S. Under the current VCCA rules could I repaint with any '32 color or only '32 cabriolet colors?

Are you interested in pleasing VCCA Judges or having a vehicle you like the looks of? To me that is the important question. Are you going to get more joy out of having a car you like or receiving a trophy? Are you going to drive it and have fun or have a show car?

Let's go touring down the Back Roads

I vote for driving it, and having FUN!!!

Trophys just take up valuable shelf space for spare NOS parts

I would suggest that you forget the judging and drive the car and have fun with it. Cars were made to be driven. Besides, the information on the cowl tag (i.e. paint codes) is redundant since the VCCA does not acknowledge that information. And, now that you can apparently have the incorrect year engine in your car (any 1929-32 engine), how important are the correct paint colors anyway?

However, if you really want to have a show car, then I would make it as original as humanly possible, including the correct colors for paint number 95.

It isn't about a trophy for me.

I see VCCA judging as a way to make my car historically correct, a living piece of our American History.

I love our history and I have to decide if I want a car that is historically correct (the way it really was) or only a car that could have been historically correct (clone?).

I saw a lot of kids at the last show I went to and do we really want the next generations to think that all of the cars came with all of the accessories and www and etc that most 'show'
cars have hung on them??

Gator, Sometimes I think you worry about the damnedest things! ROFLMAO

Oh!, I was just wondering, when you get a flat fixed do you ask for the original air to be put back in the tire, and do you always insist on a black patch on a black tube and a red patch on a red tune? Just kidding, I see you just like to do everything the right way, That is good. After all when the info is there why not use it. Eh!

The only 50's cars at the AACA show that I remember riding in for many hours when young were so decked out with continental kits and accessories it took away from the original beauty of the basic car... for me anyway. Just my opinion...

In my very humble opinion when you start to make changes to the car from the way it was you are taking the first steps on a long road that ends with a street rod. Gets hard to stop sometimes. Judging by the ebay prices on accessories I have the minority opinion.

Making changes gets easier and easier as you go along...

Now, Now fellas,
Any old body shop painter knows that air dried enamel can not be top coated with lacquer without wrinkling and lifting. But what about oven baked enamel? Or catalysed enamel? Well I got news for you. Air dried enamel that is several years old, oven cured enamel and catalysed all can be top coated with lacquer. There sealers that can be used between the paints if you get queezie. If you have any questions take a rag with lacquer thinner and lay it on the middle of a panel. If the paint wrinkles then you will need to completely repaint. Just kidding, test a small hidden spot not the middle of a hood or door or fender.

Gator, Just to go along with your last remark I don't remember my Father of Grandfather ever having whitewall tires on a car. The first whitewalls in our family was when I purchased my first new car in 1954. I never saw whitewalls on a truck except in todays shows.

I have a picture of a 1931 dealer show room and a cabriolet has double whitewalls on it but in 1931 how many customers would pay the extra for whitewalls?

See you down the back roads.

"Air dried enamel that is several years old, oven cured enamel and catalyzed all can be top coated with lacquer."

Yes, that is definitely true today, but they didn't have catalyzed paint, acrylic paint, or urethane paint back in the early 1930's, and if enamel fenders were top coated with nitrocellulose lacquer by the dealer when the car was new, the lacquer would lift the enamel as you stated in your posting above. We are not talking about modern paints, rather the original paint on fenders that was only several days or several weeks old when top coated by the dealer in the early 1930's. Besides, the enamel used back then was a synthetic type of enamel which took forever to air dry. Even after the enamel was baked for a short period, the lacquer would still wrinkle it (I had a personal experience with that myself back in the 1960's).

"There (are) sealers that can be used between the paints..." Again, that's true this day in age.......but they didn't have epoxy sealers and etc. back in the early 1930's.

Posted March 7. I respecfully disagree with the dog on the lacquer over enamel painted fenders. I could go over the chemistry of the paint used back then but most would dooooooooze off before finishing. Suffice it to state that the oven "baked dry" referred to will "cure" the enamel to the point that lacquer will not lift it.

Besides the original Chevrolet literature (Sales Data 7/31 page 5 of Specifications section) specifies For those that do not know Duco is the DuPont tradename for lacquer paint. Dulux is the enamel tradename.

Sorry puppy but the literature "has spoken".

Hey Chipper Dipper: I had a 1949 Packard that, if it were alive today, would disagree with your theory. It was repainted with synthetic enamel and baked. Several months later a small portion of the car was top coated with lacquer of the same color......the baked enamel underneath lifted!

Regarding the 7-31 specifications: "The De Luxe Sport Roadster, De Luxe Landau Phaeton, and the De Luxe Cabriolet (except those in black) are regularly equipped with Ducoed fenders of a color to match the body, at an additional $15.00 List." I have the same information...but where does it say that Dulux (enamel) was used under the Duco on those particular fenders?

Chip and JunkYardDog, this additional bit of information that you posted may solve my problem of fender color:

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Besides the original Chevrolet literature (Sales Data 7/31 page 5 of Specifications section) specifies
quote:
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The De Luxe Sport Roadster, De Luxe Landau Phaeton, and the De Luxe Cabriolet (except those in black) are regularly equipped with Ducoed fenders of a color to match the body, at an additional $15.00 List.
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Based on this information does the following statement make sense????

"My cabriolet has the spare one the rear so I have been told that this makes my car a standard model, not a deluxe model. If fender color matching body color is only available for deluxe models and standard models could not have this done for an additional $15.00 it would mean that I should have black fenders."

Is this statement correct????????????

Thanks

Gator: The statement that Chipper Dipper quoted from the Sales Data Book is dated 7-31, which would be for the 1931 models.

"To be black or not to be black that is the question?

I vote to be black!,because you have a car without the front spares and just in case the durned black Dulex enamel will be ready to leave the fenders because it is jealous of the Duco coat of another color!

Gator you may have something there.

All the Dupont paint listings that I have say nothing about paint for the fenders. Except where the pearl essence paint is used on the fenders and that's listed as Duco. The only body part listed in Dulux is the wheels.

I vote for black fenders no matter what you paint the rest of it, as long as it's a 32 color.

I stayed with the original color (Black) because I think it looks great with all the chrome.

I missed that date on the post JunkYardDog...

Back to square 1???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6173&item=4532813032&rd=1

Gator check this one out.

Ya, after reading their item description, check out the photos and see how many things you can find wrong with that car.

I might sell my Sport Roadster for half of the "Sell it now" price.
Dan.

Now that it didn't sell we can pick on it.
Hubcaps un painted, fender bolts chrome (still looks cool).
Tail light lens appear to be Linx eye.
Steering wheel is wrong, with no trim.
White interior is wrong.
Chome above dash is incorrect.
Engine paint is wrong.
Wrong exhaust.
Greasy undercarrage ????
and I'm not sure about the color, I don't have chips, but I know I don't like tons of clear over base.
If ya read the write up, what carpets, headliner, and trunk are they talking about?
What else JunkYardDog???

what about the radial tires? they must be super rare!

The tire cover is also wrong, as well as the paint, the horn button, the top boot, and a few other items.

The chrome above the instrument panel looks okay to me.

If it goes for $47,000 it will be a record for a 1931.........

Are you kidding! It couldn't sell for less that half of that.

Considering the state of mind of the eBay Morons, $47,000 is very possible!

Is this a correct paint job for this car?



PS. no double www either.

But what exactly is wrong with the paint???? The color of one or both used?? Wrong year paint? too dark? too light? Wrong placements? wrong color on wheels?? Motor color is wrong for sure.

Just need more information please...

I give up! ha ha!

I was not sure if this color blue on this '31 was the correct color blue used on a '32.

Needed to know if this was the right color for the wheels also.

While I'm not an expert on 31's. Having grown up with a 31 Coupe and been around the car and many other 31's under restoration over 44 years. I would like to add a few comments. This car appears to be a good example of what could go wrong with miss information or no information. As JunkYardDog and Rgwiz pointed out there there are many things wrong with this restoration. We as a club should be careful about picking apart a car. The owner has much pride in his restoration. Some times in our efforts to point out what is wrong we chase them away. With that said In the spirit of helping future restorations I would like to point out a few other things that I see as incorrect as it was delivered. While most of these things pointed are not correct as we know it was delivered. They could be considered correct by their replacment part applications. For instance:

The tail light lens is correct by Lynx application.

The muffler could be correct by Walkers application.

The radiator cap, gas cap, crank hold cover could be correct by their manufactures application.

The brake and clutch pad are the correct item per their replacement parts manufacturer.

Some additional observations: The step on the fender appears to be in the incorrect position. Could this have reproduction fenders on it, if the hole is not in the correct location? The bumper end bolts appear to be oversized heads. Valve cover bolts are not acorn nuts. The pedal pads, as has been pointed out were not available till 32. The tail light bold are chrome.

All in all after looking this over quite a bit I would say this was restored using a lot of NON Chevrolet replacments parts. Thanks to places like Western Auto, United Motors, Joe's Parts house this car is still on the road.

Dare I ask if this car has hex nuts or square nuts holding the tail lights in place on the stands.

I understand what you are saying about the use of replacements parts. It is well taken, my Dad used to have boxes of that stuff. Keeping in mind, that way back in the old days genuine parts were difficult to get.
A lot of our members try to use original restored parts or quality reproduction parts that are manufactured to look exactly like the original. I guess it's because a lot of our cars may be judged sooner or later. Or maybe we do this just because we are a determined bunch.
When I see an asking price way and above what a car should sell for I get very picky and so do others. To me, that owner opened himself up to much criticism do to his reserve number. If he eventually gets close to that number, I'd be surprise. More likely it's the agent selling the car for him that set the price and is looking for a fat commission.
Just another word about the aftermarket parts. It's cool, and I don't mind seeing vintage aftermarket parts used, just don't misrepresent the public by asking an outrageous price that may lead someone to believe it's authentic.

"Just another word about the aftermarket parts. It's cool, and I don't mind seeing vintage aftermarket parts used, just don't misrepresent the public by asking an outrageous price that may lead someone to believe it's authentic."

I totally agree with that myself.

I totally agree with RGwiz and JunkYardDog...

Gator!...is this what you were talking about?
http://www.theguildofautomotiverestorers.com/1931_Chev_forsale_Hahn.html

Cool!...Bangor Biege with Haverhill Brown fenders!...

In these photos, it dosen't look bad at all.

Notice how the under fender color is painted to match.

Thanks for that site RGwiz; now that I see the color it looks sort-of like the "yellow" on my car or is that cars' tan color off from what it should be?

How yellow was the '32 yellow? banana yellow, school bus yellow, yield sign yellow, light butter yellow, was it a creamy yellow or sharp/bright yellow??

The original owner changing the car from tan to yellow would be a fairly easy change to make.

Thanks again.

The 1931 Chevrolet featured in those photos would look much richer with black fenders. Once again, there is too much brown and tan with no contrast. The color scheme looks good, but not as pleasing to the eye as it would with black fenders.

But if it was offered as a color scheme for 31, then maybe Gator has a fighting chance, povided this car was painted true to form for 31and carried over to 32.
Gator...to me it looks like Bangor Biege. Maybe the lighting in that showroom makes it appear a little yellow.
Notice how the window offsets are not painted biege. Almost make the car look like a Standard.

Since Gator's car is a 1932, then he will have to follow the specifications for 1932 instead of for 1931. Also, the fact that the window offsets are not painted Bangor Beige on the 1931 featured in the photos has nothing to do with being a standard or a deluxe. The solution is that the person restoring the car did not paint it correctly...and that includes the instrument panel too!

I had a stored window frame fall again the left front fender during some wind the other day and it chipped off a piece of paint. So I think I will get the sander out and sand off some paint to see what was there back in '32.

Will let you know what I find.

Thanks for all of the help guys.

So Gator, it looks like we are back to page one.....and Stanislaw still walks with a limp!

I follow the old rule of "measure twice and cut once", except I tend to measure more than twice, LOL.

Making mistakes and having to redo something again is way too expensive...(been there and done that...)

I agree. Maybe the doctors should have measured twice when they fit ol' Stanislaw for the wooden leg...