My carb on my 54 210 is pouring gas after a new fuel pump install,does anyone know where to get a new Rochester or should I just try and rebuild my old one.

Before doing that, check your fuel pump pressure and also for dirt under the float needle in the carburetor.

Welcome to Chevy Chatter II!

Thanks for the reply and the welcome Junkyard Dog.Another question for ya though,How do I check the fuel pump pressure,is there a way to adjust the pressure.

This can happen after disturbing the fuel lines. A little dirt, etc. breaks loose and gets stuck under the needle valve in the carburetor. You can tap a little where the fuel line enters the carburetor, take it and drive it a bit with the throttle floored to flush it through, or remove the bowl cover and clean out under the needle valve.

Thanks Chev Nut,I can use all the advice I can get.I'm new to the car scene,always fooled with motorcycles, my 22 yr. old Son is a auto tech and has been giving me a hand but most of his knowledge is with the new stuff.I was hoping to be driving her after the new fuel pump,kinda disheartening seeing her sit there and not being able to drive her.

I agree, have had it happen two times in the past after changing a fuel filter.

I will see what i can do.Some dirt in her would be nice.

Well fired her up,taped on the bowl where the fuel enters,no leaking,took her out for a ten mile spin,no leaking.You guys are great,thanks a million.She does have a miss though,i'll do a search on tuneing and timming,see what I can find.Thanks again,I know where to get my info now.

Yep, it definitely sounds like you had a piece of dirt stuck under the float needle. Glad that you got the old girl back on the road again.

If that 'little miss" isn't a bad plug, plug wire or the point gap isn't right on, check for a small vacuum leak around the intake or maybe the vacuum line to the vacuum advance.

I'll check it out MrMack,I do have new plug wires,where should my points gap be set??,thanks very much for the heads up on the miss,this forum is the best.

My book shows the point gap should be set to 0.019 for new points and 0.016 for used points the difference is to account for wear of the cam follower on the point set. There is a dwell meter setting too, but I don't remember it, since I go by the points gap setting with a feeler gauge. I rarely check the dwell on the six cylinders.

MrMack I didn't find any vaccum leaks,I have what I think is a vaccum choke,choke is unhooked though,their is a rod running from the manifold to the carb,the base of the rod where it meets the manafold is loose on the manifold,appears to have been a clamp device to hold it in place,the clamp is rusted and broken,I did however find I had a loose plug,don't have time to take her out tonight but will report back,I'll also check my points,thanks a bunch for the help.

You might want to check your heat riser and spring to make sure it is working correctly.

Some of the older Automatic chokes had a termo type of a sprial coiled up spring that operated the choke behind the baklite adjustment cover. Those have a heat tube touching the exhaust manifold and the heat tube is held in place by a stamped sheet metal bracket. the other end is attached to the carb at the choke and heats that spiral wound spring so that when cold the choke closes and when the manifold heat heats the spring it will open the choke.

I found some more info on the Rochester BC carb choke system

CHOKE SYSTEM
To insure proper starting and driving dur­ing cold weather operation, the Model "BC" Carburetor employs a fully automatic choke. (As shown in Figure 7.) This choke system is composed of a thermostatic coil, choke piston, choke valve and fast idle cam and linkage. It is controlled by a combination of intake manifold vacuum, the offset choke valve, atmospheric temperature, and exhaust manifold heat.
The thermostatic coil, which is linked to the choke valve shaft, holds the choke valve closed when the engine is cold. As the en­gine is started, air velocity against the offset choke valve causes the valve to open slightly against the torque of the thermostatic coil. In addition, as the engine starts, intake mani­fold vacuum is applied to the choke piston. which also tends to pull the choke valve open.
Figure 7. Choke System

As a consequence, the choke valve assumes a position where the torque of the thermostatic coil is balanced against the vacuum pull upon the choke piston and air velocity against the offset choke valve, thereby causing a regulated air flow into the carburetor which provides a proper mixture during the warm-up period.
During warm-up, the choke piston serves to modify the choking action to compensate for varying engine loads or acceleration. Any acceleration or increased road load decreases the vacuum exerted on the choke piston. This allows the thermostatic coil torque to momentarily increase choke valve closure to provide the engine with a sufficiently richer mixture for accelera­tion.
As the engine warms up, hot air from the exhaust manifold "stove" is drawn into the ther-mostatic coil cover by the vacuum behind the choke piston. This hot air causes a rise in temperature which causes the coil to slowly relax its tension. Thus the choke valve is allowed to move gradually to the full open position.


FYI, I don't like this automatic choke, so I use the Rochester model B carb that is a manual choke model used on 235 chevrolet truck engines. I like to do my own chokeing.

Model B Rochester carb:

Sounds kinda complicated just for a choke.Mine isn't working at all,could this cause the engine to miss?The choke does not close at all,there is a rod from the throttle linkage to the choke that has had the end broken off shortning the rod. I don't have any trouble starting the car,pump the gas some and she fires right up.Still haven't had a chance to check the points yet,gona drive her this weekend,if I'm lucky the loose plug was the problem.

That plug was more than likely the problem, that rod probably is the one that speeds up the engine when the choke closes, if it doesn't close it may not be a factor.
If what all you say about the carb, If the thing was mine , I would be looking for another carb, clean it up and put a $15 NAPA kit in it. (use the old one for parts)

All the info and advice has been a great help,hopefully the weather cooperates this weekend and I can report back on how she's running.

Took her out for a spin,went about 15 miles and she was running good.Stopped a light and when I took off she was missin again.Went home and checked to make sure the spark plug was tight,it was,checked my wire from the distributor to the coil.Made sure it wasn't touching the coil housing(something I read on here).Fired her back up and took off again.She was running good,went about 10 miles,stopped at a light and when I took off missing again,so I tried the run it at high throttle suggestion and it cleared right up.Went home and got out again yesterday,drove her about 50 miles,ran good,back into town,stop at a light and she misses when I take off,hard throttle and she guits missin,she was running fine when I parked her.

I would suggest a new set of spark plugs - if you have not replaced them already. I use the AC R45 in my cars and have good results. If that dosen't do the job I would replace the spark plug wires next.

Check the float level in your carburetor also.

You may have a weak coil. Suggest you change it out.

If you have a vacuum gage I would check the vacuum. You may have a leaking intake manifold.

I will take all these suggestions into consideration.Will be driving her this weekend,going to visit my Son,then on to see my parents.If she don't break down should get two or three hundred miles on her.I'll see how it goes,the car wasn't driven much for some time but now that I have it I plan on driving it often.I'm hoping by putting miles on it the bugs will soon be worked out.This forum has already help to get her runnin better and also saved me some bucks.Well we'll see how it goes after this weekend.


Later Eddie

Changed the coil,put a resistor between the coil and distributor(Mine has been converted to 12V)a hometown mechanic who's been around a long time recommended I put the resistor in,put new points in,changed the champion plugs for the AC R 45's. Got 300 miles or so put on her between replacing and fixing and she's running good for now,knock on wood.Thanks again for everyones help,I've learned I can do some things myself,gives me some confidence I'll be able to keep her driveable